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News > Alpinism >

Ogre Thumb - new route "Ragni sul filo"

On 13 August an Italian expedition from Lecco climbed the new route "Ragni sul filo" on the Ogre Thumb, Pakistan
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Ogre Thumb 2001 - Pakistan
'Ragni sul Filo'
Length: 700 m
Pitches: 18 + 6 on the original line
Grade : 7c max (IX°) and A2


The expedition
Giuseppe Lafranconi
Marco Vago
Simone Pedeferri
Alberto Marazzi
Matteo Castelnuovo




Sponsors
Comune di Lecco, CAI Lecco, Kong spa, Longoni Sport spa, Great Escapes, Enervit, Gruppo Sicorn


On 13 August the Italians Giuseppe Lafranconi, Matteo Castelnuovo, Marco Vago and Alberto Marazzi completed their 18-pitch new route on the SE Face of the Ogre Thumb, Karakorum, Pakistan. The final 6 pitches are shared with the original line of ascent and the route, called “Ragni sul filo”, has been graded 7c, max A2.

The expedition
After a flight to Islamabad and a three day walk-in the “Ogre Thumb 2001” expedition established Base Camp, where they met Thomas Huber and his companions, fresh from their successful ascent of Ogre III and Ogre I.

After a first reconnaissance the team decided on a different line of ascent as they discovered that their planned route was prone to falling blocks the size of fridges!

The new line, completed just two days before their permit expired, leads via a series of cracks close to the left arête of Ogre Thumb to a large ledge 200m beneath the summit, where it joins up with the original route up the tower. The climbers managed to on-sight 2/3 of the route, using mainly natural gear for protection. the new line is dedicated to their hometown, Lecco, where the 2nd stage of the World Cup 2001 will be held this weekend.


 Ogre Thumb 2001 intro (10/07/2001)
 Ogre second ascent (25/07/2001)


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