New Gstellihorn climbs in Switzerland by Yannick Glatthard, Jonas Schild

On the west face of Gstellihorn in the Engelhörner massif in Switzerland the alpinists Yannick Glatthard and Jonas Schild have established two testing routes ground-up. The first is called Wilde Has, was established between 2020 and 2021 with difficulties up to 7b and protection deemed expo, while the second is called Stiller-Has, was first ascended this summer, and takes a line slightly to the left past difficulties up to 7c+/8a.

Schild told planetmountain "Both are protected with a surprising number of pegs, given how compact the wall is. In the 1960s the west face of Gestellihorns was regarded as one of the last great unclimbed faces of the Bernese Oberland. It was first climbed in 1963. We tried to adapt our first ascent style to this location and, wherever possible, do without bolts. I reckon both routes are not extremely difficult gradewise, but the many obligatory crux sections. Definitely two new interesting routes for ambitious alpinists who like to climb in remote places."

Link: La Sportiva, Mammut

TOPO: Stiller-Has, Gstellihorn, Switzerland

TOPO: Wilde Has, Gstellihorn, Switzerland