K2014-150 CAI - Zemu Exploratory Expedition

During the 50 days spent exploring, 7 cols were climbed, including the vertiginous Porta della Rivelazione Perenne (6036m), directly above the legendary Zemu Gap. Led by Alberto Peruffo, the team also climbed Alpine Guides Peak (5550 m), Sella Col Peak (5470m), the two summits Cime della Fratellanza (5360-5380m) and Rinpoche Temple Peak (5684m). All these mountains were climbed from the Tonghsiong glacier, the most difficult being Rinpoche Temple Peak, with mixed sections and slopes up to 65° (700m, TD-).

The expedition then moved to another hanging glacier, even more hidden and difficult to reach: South Simvo, exploring the entire length of this glacier and reaching it's end, dubbed Porta della Rivelazione Perenne. Defended by a 1000m wall of snow and ice (TD, plenty of objective dangers and vertical sections) this is located directly opposite Kanchenjunga Zemu Ridge, a prime future objective. The expedition them climbed South Simvo's Cima Nord delle Tre Cime (5750 m), the most beautiful peak above the glacier. This ascent proved difficult and climbed a knife-edge, exposed ridge past difficulties up to TD+, 75°, 650m.

It is worth underlining that the expedition operated in total isolation, without support or help from the valleys, without satellite telephone or the possibility to communicate with the rest of the world.

TEAM // Alberto Peruffo, Anindya Mukherjee, Cesar Rosales Chinchay, Francesco Canale Davide Ferro, Andrea Tonin, Enrico Ferri.

Info and details on www.k2014.it

The first conference will take place on Thursday 21 October at Valdagno, Italy at 20.45. Speakers: Alberto Peruffo, Davide Ferro and Andrea Tonin