Jannu and Nuptse, the Russian expeditions

Latest news from the Himalaya. the Russian Jannu expedition has abandoned its attempt, while Valery Babanov and Yury Koshelenko are currently going for their summit push

Planetmountain.com

October 2003

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Jannu and Nuptse. Two incredibly difficult mountains, two unclimbed faces in the Nepalese Himalayas. And, as is often the case, two determined Russian expeditions attempting the impossible. Published below is a brief report sent to us by the russian website www.mountain.ru which followed their steps over the last few weeks.

Nuptse East, South Face 7804m Nepal
Valery Babanov and Yury Koshelenko are currently going for their summit bid of unclimbed Nuptse East via the immense south Face. The two Russians reached Base Camp over a month ago and, after having encountered terrible conditions and heavy snowfall, managed to forge a route along the south pillar up to 6900m, where they spent the night acclimatising.

After a rest in Base Camp they departed yesterday at 06.00am on their final, decisive summit push. They reached their tent at 6200m at 13.30 and spent the night there. Current weather conditions are fine, with clear skies.

Prior to departing for Nuptse Valery Babanov, who is attempting the mountain for the third time, summed up the expedition and his chances as follows: "Nuptse East is still one of the highest virgin summits so our expedition is very relevant. What about our chances for success? Well, fifty-fifty as it's usual in Himalayas. We'll try our best, though."

Jannu North Face 7710m Nepal
The Russian expedition, headed by Alexander Odintsov, has failed in its attempt to climb the incredible north face of Jannu. The expedition reached a impressive highpoint of 7200m before turning back due to the elevated risk of avalanches and icefall along this massive himalayan big wall. The team is currently returning to Kathmandu. The group spirit can probably be summed up in the last email sent to the editors of www.mountain.ru, which followed the expedition online:"a good climber is an old climber."