Drapeaux d’enfer, new mixed climb in Valle di Champorcher, Valle d'Aosta

On 15/02/2010 Enrico Bonino and Filippo Gonnelli carried out the first ascent of Drapeaux d’enfer (95m, 5+/6, M5+, X,II) in Valle di Champorcher (Valle d'Aosta), Italy.
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Drapeaux d’enfer - Valle di Champorcher (Valle d'Aosta)
arch. E. Bonino
The new route Drapeaux d’enfer climbs a line to the left of Zero 70, the icefall first climbed a month ago by Bonino together with Giampiero Bertotti, Stefano dalla Gasperina and Sofia Palmisano. "The idea of climbing the curtain to the left of Zero 70 had continued to play in my mind" explains Bonino "but the rock quality had put me off as I was worried about encountering a "building site" instead of an icefall... A few days ago I returned to repeat Zero 70 with Nicolas Melis. After the warmer temperatures and the snowfall I thought that the icefall would have suffered and I wasn't sure whether it would still be in condition. But to my surprise the drip was still good and, above all, to the left some curtains seemed to touch the rock, forming a slender drip..."

Bonino returned on 15 February together with Filippo Gonelli "without a drill but laden with gear to see whether it would be possible to climb a logical, non-extreme line." using only trad gear the two forged their Drapeaux d’enfer, 95m, 5+/6, M5+, X,II, which Bonino describes as "a mix of rock and ice, which takes a totally independent line to the left of of Zero 70". The two have also baptised this area "The Curtains Wall".

- Drapeaux d’enfer
Note:
Links Planetmountain
News Bonino
Database icefalls
Links www
enricobonino.blogspot.com



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