Der Name der Rose climbed in Val Lasties, Dolomites

The report by Johannes Egger who with Simon Furggler, Alex Unterkalmsteiner and Manuel Luterotti established Der Name der Rose, a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Dolomites, close to his famous Solo per un altro Hashtag.
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Der Name der Rose in Val Lasties, Dolomites (Johannes Egger, Simon Furggler, Alex Unterkalmsteiner, Manuel Luterotti)
archivio Johannes Egger

As preparation for an ice climbing trip, on 26 January 2019 Simon Furggler and I headed up into Val Lasties. Friends had repeatedly told me that it's a pity that there are only a few well-protected mixed climbs for those wishing to learn the ropes. Since I'd been tempted to establish a route with bolts for quite a while, and I also wanted to get to know my Norway climbing partner a bit better, combing the two seemed like a wonderful idea.

It really was very cold though and drilling bolts was a completely new process for me, hence our progress to the right of Solo per un altro Hashtag was slow. After just three pitches we called it a day.

On 2 March I returned with Alex Unterkalmsteiner and finished the last pitch. It was warm that day, my trousers were soaking wet and my motivation to free the last pitch hit rock bottom.

I had to wait until 19 February 2022 to find a partner willing to trudge all the way up into Val Lasties. We weren't stressed in the slightest because we knew that nobody would be on our route, so we set off leisurely, at 7 am from Bozen.

The approach dragged on, as always, but as we slowly get close to the drip the wind blew the clouds away and our mood suddenly improved. Manuel led the first pitches, then it was my turn for the sharp end.

The traverse still looked as tough as I'd remembered it to be, but luckily I managed to locate all the right placements straight away and happily I plunged the axe into the ice I'd been yearning for. Throughout my climb I wondered how I'd managed to place the bolts, it always amazes me how clear my mind is when I step into the unknown. Indeed, I have often found it much more difficult to repeat a pitch than to establish it!

One full 60m abseil led us back to the base, and later on this was followed by a beer to celebrate our great new climb called Der Name der Rose!




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