Mario Brovia
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Lago Sant Anna: Giuseppe De Franco at Settore Bimbo climbing
Giuseppe De Franco
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 7a
Height
20m
Routes number
15
Rock type
Rough grained gneiss, bring tape!


The wave of trad climbing in Valle Po continues. Acting on a hunch by Tristano Gallo, a new crag called Wonderland has been created at the famous Roccia Re climbing area in the Piemonte region of NW Italy.

Wonderland is the second trad crag in Valle Po and it offers superb climbing up rough-grained granite with mid-grad routes: 15 climbs circa 20m high, with difficulties ranging from 5b - 7a and the majority being circa 6c.

An instant classic is the aptly named “Fuori Misura”, a 20m high offwidth graded 7a R1+ which is bound to be appreciated by all off-width climbers. "It's certainly worth repeating" is what others have already commented.

Combined with the nearby Trad Area, Wonderland offers a host of mid-grade routes which offer some fantastic, unparalleled climbing.

One of the local climbers, Alberto Fantone, stated: “Cleaning the cracks was hard work and pruning the crag required lots of time, but seeing the result it was certainly worth it."
Access
Drive up the Valle Po to the fork for Oncino, head to Crissolo, after circa 2 km turn off right for Ciampetti di Ostana. After 1 km drive past three hairpin bends, park on the right 100m after the final bend and just before the church. The crag is clearly signoposted on a tree. Approach: follow the path through the Borgata, after 100 m ascend left to the sign, from here descend through the chestnut forest and follow the red markers to reach the crag in 10 minutes. Climb
Almost all the routes follow cracks; plenty of jamming required and some laybacking. Notes
All belays are equipped with 10mm stainless steel bolts and abseil chain.



Sectors

Wonderland
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Funaboli Notturni 18m 7a
2 Zonxa 16m 6a
3 Barbari volanti 13m 5b
4 Super tramp 18m 6c
5 Scot 17m 6a+
6 Cin 20m 6b+
7 Alphadog 20m 6c+
8 Burlesque 20m 6c+
9 Freehnad 20m 6c
10 Fap fap 20m 6c+
11 Kalipso 17m NL
12 Rocknrolla 20m 6c+
13 La porchettona 15m NL
14 Fuori misura 20m 7a
15 Opera 8 12m 5c





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 7a
Height
20m
Routes number
15
Rock type
Rough grained gneiss, bring tape!


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