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Trad Area: La Maestra 7a
Mario Brovia
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 7a
Height
25m
Routes number
23
Half-way between Roccia Rè and Roccabruj a new crag was discovered by Mountain Guide Alberto Fantone who, with the help of Mario Brovia and Adriano Coero Borga, established a series of trad routes located within the forest just before the fork for Oncino on the main road that runs through the Po valley.At present 23 pitches have been climbed and the grades, indicated at the base, range from 5a to 7a. Each route has tree abseils, the idea being to enable others to experience traditional clean climbing without bolts.Plans are underway to add new routes and for those wishing to ascend no lines I recommend, despite not being a fanatical "anti-bolt" advocate, the do so with trad gear only. Those wishing to climb on bolts can climb on the 189 routes located at the two crags nearby crags.Given its ease of access, the large car park and beauty of the routes this will certainly transform into an excellent trad crag in southern Piemonte.
Access
Take the main road s.p. 662 through valle Po, past Paesana and Calcinere towards Crissolo and reach the Oncino fork. Park in the large car park just before the bridge. A red arrow is clearly visible on the right, follow this trail up through the forest to the crag. This is comprised of numerous sectors, download the map so as not to get lost. 10 minute walk-in. Climb
Alternatively, toprope and abseil off the trees.
Take the main road s.p. 662 through valle Po, past Paesana and Calcinere towards Crissolo and reach the Oncino fork. Park in the large car park just before the bridge. A red arrow is clearly visible on the right, follow this trail up through the forest to the crag. This is comprised of numerous sectors, download the map so as not to get lost. 10 minute walk-in. Climb
Alternatively, toprope and abseil off the trees.
Sectors
Trad Area
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
0 | Nost | 12m | 5a | |
A. Diedro\camino. Fettuccia Fr 2 0,5 0,75 | ||||
0 | Spot | 15m | 5a | |
A. Diedro\camino. Fettuccia, nut 3 Fr 0,5 3 | ||||
0 | Prima Volta | 15m | 5a | |
A. Diedro. Fr 3 1 4 2 | ||||
0 | Revolver | 15m | 6c | |
B. Atletica su piatti e incastri. Fr 0.3 4 0.4 1 3 2 0.75 0.3 | ||||
0 | Rototom | 12m | NL | |
B. Lanci su piatte. 4 0.3 0.4 2 0.75 | ||||
0 | Talamo | 18m | 6b | |
C. Ffessura orizzontale. Fr 4 2 2 3 3 0.75 0.3 1 | ||||
0 | Piton Pete | 15m | 6a | |
C. Diedro difficile da proteggere alla fine. nut n. 3 fr 4 0.4 000 0.1 | ||||
0 | La danza dei muli | 15m | 6a | |
C. Partenza con Piton Pete poi a DX in fessura. nut n.3 fr 4 0.4 1 2 2 | ||||
0 | Romeo | 12m | 7a | |
C. Muro con tacche verticali. 5 spit | ||||
0 | Lamaestra | 15m | 7a | |
C. Fessura obliqua in dulfer e incastro. Fr 0.5 2 000 0.75 3 5 0.75 4 3 | ||||
0 | Le sabbie del tempo | 12m | 6a | |
C. Fessura fuori misura cn bulder finale. Fr. 0.5 4 5 2 1 | ||||
0 | W.T.F. | 18m | NL | |
D. Sezione dura su tacche in strapiombo. Nut 3 Fr o,5 0,4 1 0,3 0,4 | ||||
0 | Molesto | 15m | 6a+ | |
D. Traversotto il tetto poi ristabilimento. Fettuccia Fr 0,4 000 0,75 1 | ||||
0 | Doppio colpo | 12m | NL | |
E. Due fessure separate da una placca senza prese. Fr 0.75 0.5 0.1 0.75 0.75 1 0.3 0.3 | ||||
0 | Traditore | 8m | 6c+ | |
E. Diedro con passo di blocco. Fr 0.75 3 1 00 | ||||
0 | EDM | 12m | NL | |
E. Grande lancio poi ristabilimento obbligatorio. Fr 3 0.4 1 1 00 2 0.75 | ||||
0 | Schiaccia noci | 13m | NL | |
E. Micro fessura strapiombante | ||||
0 | Lemon krack | 16m | 6a | |
E. Di piedi. Fr 00 0.75 0 0.5 | ||||
0 | Il gracco | 13m | 6a | |
E. Placca poi fessura finale. Fr 0.4 3 1 | ||||
0 | Terrano | 16m | 5c | |
E. Inizio con incastri di dita. Fr. 000 0.5 0.75 0.4 00 | ||||
0 | Hardin slot | 12m | 5b | |
F. Camino. Fettuccia fr 5 4 3 | ||||
0 | Chimnei zquezze | 20m | 7a | |
F. Camino poi incastri in strapiombo. Fettuccia fr 4 5 2 3 0.5 1 2 0.4 | ||||
0 | La berbera | 20m | 5b | |
G.Diedro obliquo a libro. Fr 1 2 3 4 |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 7a
Height
25m
Routes number
23
Crags in the same region
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