Alberto Fantone, Guida Alpina
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Trad Area: La Maestra 7a
Mario Brovia
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 7a
Height
25m
Routes number
23


Half-way between Roccia Rè and Roccabruj a new crag was discovered by Mountain Guide Alberto Fantone who, with the help of Mario Brovia and Adriano Coero Borga, established a series of trad routes located within the forest just before the fork for Oncino on the main road that runs through the Po valley. At present 23 pitches have been climbed and the grades, indicated at the base, range from 5a to 7a. Each route has tree abseils, the idea being to enable others to experience traditional clean climbing without bolts. Plans are underway to add new routes and for those wishing to ascend no lines I recommend, despite not being a fanatical "anti-bolt" advocate, the do so with trad gear only. Those wishing to climb on bolts can climb on the 189 routes located at the two crags nearby crags. Given its ease of access, the large car park and beauty of the routes this will certainly transform into an excellent trad crag in southern Piemonte.
Access
Take the main road s.p. 662 through valle Po, past Paesana and Calcinere towards Crissolo and reach the Oncino fork. Park in the large car park just before the bridge. A red arrow is clearly visible on the right, follow this trail up through the forest to the crag. This is comprised of numerous sectors, download the map so as not to get lost. 10 minute walk-in. Climb
Alternatively, toprope and abseil off the trees.



Sectors

Trad Area
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
0 Nost 12m 5a
A. Diedro\camino. Fettuccia Fr 2 0,5 0,75
0 Spot 15m 5a
A. Diedro\camino. Fettuccia, nut 3 Fr 0,5 3
0 Prima Volta 15m 5a
A. Diedro. Fr 3 1 4 2
0 Revolver 15m 6c
B. Atletica su piatti e incastri. Fr 0.3 4 0.4 1 3 2 0.75 0.3
0 Rototom 12m NL
B. Lanci su piatte. 4 0.3 0.4 2 0.75
0 Talamo 18m 6b
C. Ffessura orizzontale. Fr 4 2 2 3 3 0.75 0.3 1
0 Piton Pete 15m 6a
C. Diedro difficile da proteggere alla fine. nut n. 3 fr 4 0.4 000 0.1
0 La danza dei muli 15m 6a
C. Partenza con Piton Pete poi a DX in fessura. nut n.3 fr 4 0.4 1 2 2
0 Romeo 12m 7a
C. Muro con tacche verticali. 5 spit
0 Lamaestra 15m 7a
C. Fessura obliqua in dulfer e incastro. Fr 0.5 2 000 0.75 3 5 0.75 4 3
0 Le sabbie del tempo 12m 6a
C. Fessura fuori misura cn bulder finale. Fr. 0.5 4 5 2 1
0 W.T.F. 18m NL
D. Sezione dura su tacche in strapiombo. Nut 3 Fr o,5 0,4 1 0,3 0,4
0 Molesto 15m 6a+
D. Traversotto il tetto poi ristabilimento. Fettuccia Fr 0,4 000 0,75 1
0 Doppio colpo 12m NL
E. Due fessure separate da una placca senza prese. Fr 0.75 0.5 0.1 0.75 0.75 1 0.3 0.3
0 Traditore 8m 6c+
E. Diedro con passo di blocco. Fr 0.75 3 1 00
0 EDM 12m NL
E. Grande lancio poi ristabilimento obbligatorio. Fr 3 0.4 1 1 00 2 0.75
0 Schiaccia noci 13m NL
E. Micro fessura strapiombante
0 Lemon krack 16m 6a
E. Di piedi. Fr 00 0.75 0 0.5
0 Il gracco 13m 6a
E. Placca poi fessura finale. Fr 0.4 3 1
0 Terrano 16m 5c
E. Inizio con incastri di dita. Fr. 000 0.5 0.75 0.4 00
0 Hardin slot 12m 5b
F. Camino. Fettuccia fr 5 4 3
0 Chimnei zquezze 20m 7a
F. Camino poi incastri in strapiombo. Fettuccia fr 4 5 2 3 0.5 1 2 0.4
0 La berbera 20m 5b
G.Diedro obliquo a libro. Fr 1 2 3 4





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 7a
Height
25m
Routes number
23


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