Pian Schiavaneis
1 / 17
Pian Schiavaneis, Dolomites
Francesco Tremolada
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5b - 8b/c
Height
35 m
Routes number
62
Rock type
White limestone
Orientation
S-SE
Rope
70m
Beneath some of the Dolomites finest mountains, the massive Sella and the imposing Pordoi, lies Pian Schiavaneis, a seemingly insignificant boulder compared to its mighty neighbours. Yet Pian Schiavaneis is anything but insignificant. It has evolved into the Dolomites' crucible of modern sports climbing, a playground for all and testing ground for the best. Thankfully a host of easier routes have recently been created, adding to Pian Schiavaneis' ever increasing popularity.If you are after an alternative to the Dolomites' classics or, why not, a picnic next to some hungry marmots, be sure to stop off here.
Access
From Val Gardena drive to Passo Sella and continue down to the Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi refuges. Leave the car in the car park. From Val di Fassa drive out of Canazei towards Passo Pordoi, turn left for Passo Sella and continue to the refuges.Walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins. Logistics
There are plenty of hotels, B&B's, camping grounds, supermarkets and nightlife in the Val di Fassa.Nearby Val Gardena, on the other side of Passo Sella, is also a great place to stay. Period
Pian Schiavaneis faces SSE and is situated at 2000m. Climbing is possible all year round, but summer afternoons are best. It is possible to climb if it rains but the crag seeps after extended periods of rain. Climb
Its friable overhanging limestone has been chipped, glued and drilled to sculpt routes of all grades, where power and stamina are essential and never enough. Notes
Rifugio Pian Schiavaneis 0462 - 601338Rifugio Monti Pallidi 0462 - 601337Apt Canazei 0462 - 301145Apt Val Gardena 0471-796328-793046-795122Camping Canazei 0462 - 601660Camping Campitello 0462 - 750502Weather forecast Trentino www.provincia.tn.it/meteo Bibliography
"Val di Fassa climbing" by Renato Bernard.
Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti
54 crags in the Dolomites, in 3 languages (German, Italian, English) by Vertical-Life.info, 2013
Download the guide as App Android from Google Play
From Val Gardena drive to Passo Sella and continue down to the Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi refuges. Leave the car in the car park. From Val di Fassa drive out of Canazei towards Passo Pordoi, turn left for Passo Sella and continue to the refuges.Walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins. Logistics
There are plenty of hotels, B&B's, camping grounds, supermarkets and nightlife in the Val di Fassa.Nearby Val Gardena, on the other side of Passo Sella, is also a great place to stay. Period
Pian Schiavaneis faces SSE and is situated at 2000m. Climbing is possible all year round, but summer afternoons are best. It is possible to climb if it rains but the crag seeps after extended periods of rain. Climb
Its friable overhanging limestone has been chipped, glued and drilled to sculpt routes of all grades, where power and stamina are essential and never enough. Notes
Rifugio Pian Schiavaneis 0462 - 601338Rifugio Monti Pallidi 0462 - 601337Apt Canazei 0462 - 301145Apt Val Gardena 0471-796328-793046-795122Camping Canazei 0462 - 601660Camping Campitello 0462 - 750502Weather forecast Trentino www.provincia.tn.it/meteo Bibliography
"Val di Fassa climbing" by Renato Bernard.
Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti
54 crags in the Dolomites, in 3 languages (German, Italian, English) by Vertical-Life.info, 2013
Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti English, German, Italian. by Vertical-Life.info |
Download the guide as App Android from Google Play
Sectors
Placca
From the refuges Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Power ranger | 5b | ||
2 | ? | 5c | ||
3 | ? | |||
4 | ? | 8a | ||
5 | power ranger plus | 7b/c | ||
6 | turtles | 6b | ||
7 | via delle guide | 5c | ||
8 | variante | 6a+ | ||
9 | gioco da ragaz'i | 6b | ||
10 | ciamorces | 6c | ||
11 | signore del male | |||
12 | variante | 7a+ | ||
13 | missione impossibile | 7c+ |
Centrale
From the refuges Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
14 | Pian schiavaneis | 6b | ||
15 | la tettona | 8a | ||
16 | la tettona- plus | 8a+ | ||
17 | linea mortale | 8b/c | ||
18 | non mollare | 8b+ | ||
19 | super polentin | 8b | ||
20 | polentin plus | 8a+ | ||
21 | supergrimpe | 8a | ||
22 | ce chi dice no | 8a+ | ||
23 | samba | 7b | ||
24 | samba plus | 7c | ||
25 | ciape e tira | 7b+ | ||
26 | ciape e tira plus | 7c+ | ||
27 | ciape e tira plus plus | 8a | ||
28 | pascal | 7a+ | ||
29 | pascal plus | 7b+ | ||
30 | lambada | 6b | ||
31 | lambada plus | 7b | ||
32 | lambada plus plus | 7b/c | ||
33 | dirty dancing | 7b+ | ||
34 | dirty dancing plus | 7c | ||
35 | pregio e privilegio | 7b | ||
36 | pregio e privilegio plus | 7c | ||
37 | benvenuto Etienne | 7a + | ||
38 | benvenuto Etienne plus | 7b + | ||
39 | capuvers | 8a | ||
40 | rené's line | 7b/c | ||
41 | bebé a bordo | 7c | ||
42 | benedick | 7b | ||
43 | puffo scalatore | 7b | ||
44 | pensavo peggio | 6c | ||
45 | pensavo peggio plus | 7a+ |
Gabriel
From the refuges Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
46 | donna dal cuore nero | 7a | ||
47 | sebastiena | 6b | ||
48 | sebastiena plus | 6c+ | ||
49 | voglia di volare | 6a | ||
50 | voglia di volare plus | 7a+ | ||
51 | maldestra | 7c | ||
52 | petra la dura | 7b | ||
53 | ... calanques | 7a | ||
54 | l'amico é | N.L. | ||
55 | sei forte papà | 6c | ||
56 | Friends | 6b |
No Big Area
Small crag to the right of the main wall. Slighlty overhanging one-move wonders.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
57 | dita violente | 10 metri | 6b+ | |
58 | vulcano | 12 m | 6b (dulfer) | |
59 | speedy | 13 m | 6b+ | |
60 | camicia e cravatta | 13 m | 6c+ | |
61 | usignolo | 5c | ||
62 | baby birba | 5c |
Comments
No comments yet...
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5b - 8b/c
Height
35 m
Routes number
62
Rock type
White limestone
Orientation
S-SE
Rope
70m
Crags in the same region
Related news