Spiaggia delle Lucertole
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Nicholas Hobley
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Michael Meisl
Located directly above Lake Garda, the Lizard’s Beach is one of the historic crags in Italy, where sport climbing in Italy was invented. At the start of the 1980s Roberto Bassi, Heinz Mariacher, Luisa Iovane and Manolo established a series of routes that are considered true milestones and testament the art of slab climbing. The ethics back then imposed run-out bolts, long sections of hard obligatory climbing and no checking out the moves on toprope. Nowadays these lines on perfect limestone have been rebolted to more modern standards, but climbs like Luisa violenta, Non seguitemi and La signora degli appigli remain timeless classics. And don't be fooled: even if 7a may sound like a walk in the park, these routes are anything but trivial!
From Arco reach Torbole and continue south along the lake towards Verona. Immediately after the second tunnel, park on the right, or slightly further on on the left. Limited parking available. Warning: don’t leave anything in your car.
PeriodThe crag faces south. Exposed to the strong Ora wind, it is often possible to climb here on windy afternoons in summer.
ClimbHighly technical face climbing.
See all photos| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Daffy daffy | 20m |  |
6a+ |
| 2 | Ventofobia | 20m | |
6a+ |
| 3 | Senza nome | 25m | |
6c |
| 4 | Funky ma chic | 25m | |
7b |
| 5 | Bepi nero | 30m | |
7a |
| 6 | Piccola dose | 30m | |
7a+ |
| 7 | Honky Tonky | 32m | |
6b+ |
| 8 | Cicala clack | 32m | |
7b+ |
| 9 | Peyote al rabarbaro | 32m | |
7c |
| 10 | Pat und patachon | 27m | |
6b |
| 11 | Albatros | 25m, 20m | |
6b, 7c |
| 12 | Luisa violenta | 27m, 12m, 25m | |
6b+, 5b, 7a |
| 13 | La signora degli appigli | 18m | |
7c |
| 14 | Non seguitemi mi sono perso | 20m | |
7b |
| 15 | Tom tom club | 30m, 30m | |
6b, 7b |
| 16 | Sentierissimo | 28m | |
7a |
| 17 | Laurie | 28m | |
7a |
| 18 | Trota | 30m | |
6c |
| 19 | Tom & Jerry | 30m | |
7c |
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