Spiaggia delle Lucertole (Arco)

Italy>Trentino - Alto Adige>Trento>Arco
Nicholas Hobley
1 / 11
Magnus Midtbø climbing Tom e Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole above Lake Garda close to Arco in Italy
Michael Meisl
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6a+ - 7c
Height
60m
Routes number
19
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
South
Rope
70m


Located directly above Lake Garda, the Lizard’s Beach is one of the historic crags in Italy, where sport climbing in Italy was invented. At the start of the 1980s Roberto Bassi, Heinz Mariacher, Luisa Iovane and Manolo established a series of routes that are considered true milestones and testament the art of slab climbing. The ethics back then imposed run-out bolts, long sections of hard obligatory climbing and no checking out the moves on toprope. Nowadays these lines on perfect limestone have been rebolted to more modern standards, but climbs like Luisa violenta, Non seguitemi and La signora degli appigli remain timeless classics. And don't be fooled: even if 7a may sound like a walk in the park, these routes are anything but trivial!

Access

From Arco reach Torbole and continue south along the lake towards Verona. Immediately after the second tunnel, park on the right, or slightly further on on the left. Limited parking available. Warning: don’t leave anything in your car.

Period

The crag faces south. Exposed to the strong Ora wind, it is often possible to climb here on windy afternoons in summer.

Climb

Highly technical face climbing.




Sectors

Topo
The climbs from left to right
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Daffy daffy 20m 6a+
2 Ventofobia 20m 6a+
3 Senza nome 25m 6c
4 Funky ma chic 25m 7b
5 Bepi nero 30m 7a
6 Piccola dose 30m 7a+
7 Honky Tonky 32m 6b+
8 Cicala clack 32m 7b+
9 Peyote al rabarbaro 32m 7c
10 Pat und patachon 27m 6b
11 Albatros 25m, 20m 6b, 7c
12 Luisa violenta 27m, 12m, 25m 6b+, 5b, 7a
13 La signora degli appigli 18m 7c
14 Non seguitemi mi sono perso 20m 7b
15 Tom tom club 30m, 30m 6b, 7b
16 Sentierissimo 28m 7a
17 Laurie 28m 7a
18 Trota 30m 6c
19 Tom & Jerry 30m 7c





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