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Patxi Usobiaga climbing Shining (7a+).
Vertical-Life.info
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
3a - 8b
Routes number
41
Rock type
Dolomite limestone
Orientation
East, South


For several years now, the Dolomites have been turning into a popular destination not only for alpinists and alpine climbers, but also for sport climbers. Thanks to the unique limestone and the incomparable landscapes of rock towers and mountain massifs, the Dolomites have become part of the UNESCO World Heritage. The yellow and grey rock faces attract many climbers, seeking to measure themselves on those crags.

One of the most beautiful spots has been bolted in the last few years by locals: the Passo delle Erbe is composed of several huge blocks, that have fallen from the gigantic Sass Putia. This crag is ideal for hot summer and autumn day. It probably offers some of the most interesting sportclimbing routes of Alto Adige / Südtirol, for instance "Riss-Kant" (8a+). On the central part of the main sector, there are two lines waiting to be freed, certainly of a difficulty as hard as the 8th French grade. To the left, there is the – so far – hardest route "Camilotto" (8b), first climbed by the local Hannes Mantinger. Although there are also some easier routes, that are worth noting, the high difficulties dominate the climbing on the Passo delle Erbe. It is almost needless to say that the spot at the foot of the north face of Sass Putia accounts for an impressive panorama.

Access

In Pustertal go to San Lorenzo and from there into Val Badia. Continue until Sankt Martin in Thurn and from there follow the signs to Würzjoch (Passo delle Erbe). Park directly on the pass. From Brixen go to Sankt Andrä (bottom station of the Plose cable car) and continue to Würzjoch, passing by the village of Afers. Park the car on the big parking lot on the pass. From the parking lot, follow trail nr. 8 to a hut on a pasture, where it splits. Follow trail nr. 8b to the left until the big boulders are reached. A wooden sign indicates the trail which goes up right to the crag.

Period

May - October. The crag is located at 1800m a.s.l.

Bibliography

Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti
English, German, Italian
by Vertical-Life.info

Download the guide as App Android from Google Play




Sectors

Passo delle Erbe
Recommended routes
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Monopoly 14m 6c+
2 Drop@i 18m 7b
3 Eiszeit 10m 7c
4 La ola 15m 7c
5 Sultans of swing 27m 8a
6 Riss-Kant 29m 8a+
7 Camilotto 28m 8b





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