Lumignano
Lumignano is one of the most important crags in Northern Italy. During the 1980’s, at the start of modern sports climbing, the red and orange streaked "Lumignano classica" was the focal point for many of the best climbers in the world, and even today the crag is appreciated not only for its quality limestone and beautiful routes, but also for the historical value of many of the lines.
Climbing began here as early as 1924 with the first ascent of the corner-crack "Sbrega" by Severino Casara. Renato Casarotto made numerous important ascents during the ’70’s, as did Heinz Mariacher during the early ‘80’s. Much new route activity was carried out by the local Michele Guerrini, with notable contributions by Martin Scheel and Manolo.
Lumignano lies a few kilometers south of Vicenza. From Vicenza follow the highway SS247 (signposted Este), which runs alongside the Colli Berici. Turn right for Costozza and Lumignano immediately after Longare: the crags come into view shortly after the first of these two villages. To get to Lumignano classica drive past the church and continue up the narrow road to its end. Park the car close to the large boulder, or in signposted car park 300m lower down.
LogisticsLumignano is a small village with only a few bars and one small supermarket.The new meeting point for climbers, walkers and cyclists is "La Casa dei Lumi". This also offers accommodation: www.lacasadeilumi.com
Other accommodation: B&B Brojo Hill, www.brojohill.com. The nearest campsite is in Vicenza: Campeggio Vicenza, tel. 0444/582311, Strada Pelosa 239. Other bars: "Ca’ d’oro" and bar "Fantasy".
PeriodSpring and autumn, and winter. The best time of year for Lumignano classica is winter. Climbing is not possible in summer due to the heat.
ClimbThe climbing is highly technical and demanding, and the routes tend to be bouldery and undergraded. In the overhanging “strapiombi” section the routes are athletic on painful pockets, while the technical vertical walls require excellent footwork.
Bibliography"Lumignano, arrampicate nei Monti Berici" by Michele Guerrini and Andrea Minetto, Editore Antersass
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 40 gocce di Valium | 80m | 7a, 6c, 7a+ | |
2 | Via Casarotto | 80m | A2/4 | |
3 | Placca Campi | 75m | 6a/A2 | |
4 | Melli | 25m | 5c | |
5 | Totem | 25m | 6a+ | |
6 | Fessura Rossi | 65m | 5 | |
7 | Via Conforto | 70m | 5 | |
8 | U2 | 70m | 6a | |
9 | Joshua Tree | 70m | 6b | |
10 | Spigolo Casarotto | 70m | 6a | |
11 | Pancia Mariacher | 60m | 6c, 6a+ | |
12 | Libellula Lilla | 15m | 6a+ | |
13 | Pinguino | 22m | 6a+ | |
14 | Simeoni | 22m | 6a | |
15 | Bisson | 15m | 6b | |
16 | Rénè | 15m | 6b | |
17 | Bucomania | 20m | 6b | |
18 | Kit e katzi | 20m | 6b | |
19 | Goccia d'acqua | 20m | 6a+ | |
20 | Goccia d'arsenico | 20m | 7a | |
21 | Mister X | 23m | 7c | |
22 | Mariacher | 23m | 7b | |
23 | Fata morgana | 15m | 7c | |
24 | Lee Oswald | 18m | 6a | |
25 | Ali Agcà | 18m | 6a | |
26 | Cina | 18m | 6a+ | |
27 | Catarro | 25m | 6c | |
28 | Marusca | 40m | 4 |
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
29 | Palkiewich | 20m | 6a | |
30 | Pancia classica | 25m | 5a | |
31 | Mikey mouse | 20m | 6a+ | |
32 | Pancia Casarotto | 20m | 6b | |
33 | Margherita | 20m | 7a+ | |
R.P. Heinz Mariacher 1980 | ||||
34 | Odore dei sogni | 20m | 7a+ | |
35 | Sogni d'oro | 12m | 7b+ | |
36 | Oro puro | 23m | 7b/c | |
37 | Arco d'oro | 20m | 7c | |
R.P. Martin Scheel 1985 | ||||
38 | Aguaplano | 20m | 8a | |
39 | Atomic café | 10m | 8a | |
R.P. Heinz Mariacher 1986 | ||||
40 | Master Blaster | 10m | 7b | |
41 | Vietato l'ingresso | 15m | 7b | |
42 | Burro e piombo | 10m | 7a | |
43 | Rotpunkt di sera | 12m | 7a+ | |
44 | Passo falso | 25m | 7c+ | |
45 | El Somaro | 25m | 8a | |
R.P. Heinz Mariacher 1986. Prima femminile Luisa Iovane | ||||
46 | La stangata | 25m | 8b+ | |
47 | Mare + La Stagnata | 25m | 8b+/c | |
R.P. Flavio Bortoli 20/11/2010 | ||||
48 | Mare allucinante | 23m | 8b+ | |
R.P. Pietro Dal Prà 1987 | ||||
49 | Boomerang | 20m | 8a+ | |
R.P. Martin Scheel 1986? | ||||
50 | Falangioni | 20m | 8b | |
51 | Orient Express | 20m | 7b | |
R.P. Martin Scheel | ||||
52 | Angelo Rosa | 20m | 7b+ | |
53 | Durlindana | 25m | 6c | |
54 | Anny | 25m | 6c/7a | |
55 | Pistacchio | 25m | 6b+ | |
56 | Spranghe | 20m | 5+ | |
57 | Fly down | 20m | 7a | |
58 | Diedro della sbrega | 40m | 4a | |
59 | Pedro | 20m | 5 | |
60 | Spigolo della sbrega | 25m | 5b |
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
61 | Melquiades | 25m | 6b | |
62 | Macondo | 25m | 6b+ | |
63 | Macedonia | 25m | 6a | |
64 | Etique etoc | 20m | 6b+ | |
65 | Più dolore per favore | 20m | 6c | |
66 | Befana | 20m | 6c+ | |
67 | Via dei tedeschi | 20m | 7b | |
68 | Eddi | 20m | 5a | |
69 | Robins | 30m | 5+ | |
70 | Delirio alimentare | 25m | 6a+ | |
71 | Pink panter | 25m | 6b | |
72 | Grillo parlante | 25m | 7a+ | |
73 | Scacciapuffi | 5a | ||
74 | Camino classico | 4 | ||
75 | La baia degli arcobaleni | 18m | 6a | |
76 | Lo sgombro | 18m | 6b | |
77 | Orrenda | 18m | 6a | |
78 | Excalibur | 20m | 6a+ | |
79 | Pippo pamir | 25m | 7a+ | |
80 | Scharura del Sahara | 25m | 7a | |
81 | Ginevra | 25m | 7b | |
82 | Fly dreams | 20m | 7b+ | |
83 | Trichomonas | 20m | 6a+ | |
84 | Aswan | 18m | 6c+ | |
85 | Beverly Hills | 6b+ | ||
86 | Marilyn | 18m | 6b | |
87 | Var. diretta | 18m | 6a+ | |
88 | La 17 | 18m | 5+ | |
89 | S.N. | 6b | ||
90 | Coccodrillo crack | 18m | 5b/c | |
91 | Lampo d'argento | 20m | 7a | |
92 | Ma chére | 20m | 8a | |
93 | Papillon | 20m | 7b | |
R.P. Heinz Mariacher 1986 | ||||
94 | Jabba the Hut | 20m | 7b+ | |
95 | Technicolor | 25m | 7a | |
96 | Miso rock | 25m | 8a | |
97 | Soia climb | 8b? | ||
98 | Mago della propoli | 20m | 7c | |
Prima femminile: Luisa Iovane | ||||
99 | I want your sex | 20m | 7a+ | |
100 | Fessura Mariacher | 20m | 6c | |
101 | Diedro | 20m | 4 | |
102 | Physical | 20m | 6b | |
103 | Hot dog | 20m | 6a | |
104 | Emmenthal | 20m | 6c | |
105 | (A+B)2 | 20m | 6c |