Lumignano Classica, Italy, Veneto, Lumignano

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Lumignano Classica.

Planetmountain

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

5a - 8b+

Height

80m

Routes number

104

Rock type

Limestone

Orientation

Rope

60m rope

Lumignano is one of the most important crags in Northern Italy. During the 1980’s, at the start of modern sports climbing, the red and orange streaked "Lumignano classica" was the focal point for many of the best climbers in the world, and even today the crag is appreciated not only for its quality limestone and beautiful routes, but also for the historical value of many of the lines.

Climbing began here as early as 1924 with the first ascent of the corner-crack "Sbrega" by Severino Casara. Renato Casarotto made numerous important ascents during the ’70’s, as did Heinz Mariacher during the early ‘80’s. Much new route activity was carried out by the local Michele Guerrini, with notable contributions by Martin Scheel and Manolo.

Access

Lumignano lies a few kilometers south of Vicenza. From Vicenza follow the highway SS247 (signposted Este), which runs alongside the Colli Berici. Turn right for Costozza and Lumignano immediately after Longare: the crags come into view shortly after the first of these two villages. To get to Lumignano classica drive past the church and continue up the narrow road to its end. Park the car close to the large boulder, or in signposted car park 300m lower down.

Logistics

Lumignano is a small village with only a few bars and one small supermarket.The new meeting point for climbers, walkers and cyclists is "La Casa dei Lumi". This also offers accommodation: www.lacasadeilumi.com

Other accommodation: B&B Brojo Hill, www.brojohill.com. The nearest campsite is in Vicenza: Campeggio Vicenza, tel. 0444/582311, Strada Pelosa 239. Other bars: "Ca’ d’oro" and bar "Fantasy".

Period

Spring and autumn, and winter. The best time of year for Lumignano classica is winter. Climbing is not possible in summer due to the heat.

Climb

The climbing is highly technical and demanding, and the routes tend to be bouldery and undergraded. In the overhanging “strapiombi” section the routes are athletic on painful pockets, while the technical vertical walls require excellent footwork.

Bibliography

"Lumignano, arrampicate nei Monti Berici" by Michele Guerrini and Andrea Minetto, Editore Antersass

Lumignano Classica & Brojon - Lumignano Classica & Brojon

Lumignano Classica - Luca Loreggian, La Stangata 8b+

Lumignano - The crag Lumignano, Colli Berici

Lumignano Classica - Mauro Dell'Antonia - Ombre Rosse 8b

Lumignano - The main wall at Lumignano Classica

Lumignano - Luca Quaglia climbing 'La stangata' (8b+) at Lumignano

Lumignano - Michele Guerini on 'Arco d'Oro' 7c, Lumignano

Lumignano - Flavio Bortoli attempting to free the connection 'Mare + Stangata', Lumignano

Lumignano Classica - Nicholas Hobley - Goccia d'arsenico 7a+.

Lumignano Classica - Andrea Luise, Boomerang 8a+.

Lumignano Classica - Flavio Bortoli attempting to free the connection 'Mare + Stangata'

Lumignano Classica - Giovanna Billoro - Scharura del Sahara 6c+

Lumignano Classica - Michele Massironi - Coccodrillo crack 5b/c

See all photos

Sectors

Simeoni - Marusca

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	40 gocce di Valium	80m	7a, 6c, 7a+
2	Via Casarotto	80m	A2/4
3	Placca Campi	75m	6a/A2
4	Melli	25m	5c
5	Totem	25m	6a+
6	Fessura Rossi	65m	5
7	Via Conforto	70m	5
8	U2	70m	6a
9	Joshua Tree	70m	6b
10	Spigolo Casarotto	70m	6a
11	Pancia Mariacher	60m	6c, 6a+
12	Libellula Lilla	15m	6a+
13	Pinguino	22m	6a+
14	Simeoni	22m	6a
15	Bisson	15m	6b
16	Rénè	15m	6b
17	Bucomania	20m	6b
18	Kit e katzi	20m	6b
19	Goccia d'acqua	20m	6a+
20	Goccia d'arsenico	20m	7a
21	Mister X	23m	7c
22	Mariacher	23m	7b
23	Fata morgana	15m	7c
24	Lee Oswald	18m	6a
25	Ali Agcà	18m	6a
26	Cina	18m	6a+
27	Catarro	25m	6c
28	Marusca	40m	4

Margherita - El Somaro

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
29	Palkiewich	20m	6a
30	Pancia classica	25m	5a
31	Mikey mouse	20m	6a+
32	Pancia Casarotto	20m	6b
33	Margherita	20m	7a+
	R.P. Heinz Mariacher 1980
34	Odore dei sogni	20m	7a+
35	Sogni d'oro	12m	7b+
36	Oro puro	23m	7b/c
37	Arco d'oro	20m	7c
	R.P. Martin Scheel 1985
38	Aguaplano	20m	8a
39	Atomic café	10m	8a
	R.P. Heinz Mariacher 1986
40	Master Blaster	10m	7b
41	Vietato l'ingresso	15m	7b
42	Burro e piombo	10m	7a
43	Rotpunkt di sera	12m	7a+
44	Passo falso	25m	7c+
45	El Somaro	25m	8a
	R.P. Heinz Mariacher 1986. Prima femminile Luisa Iovane
46	La stangata	25m	8b+
47	Mare + La Stagnata	25m	8b+/c
	R.P. Flavio Bortoli 20/11/2010
48	Mare allucinante	23m	8b+
	R.P. Pietro Dal Prà 1987
49	Boomerang	20m	8a+
	R.P. Martin Scheel 1986?
50	Falangioni	20m	8b
51	Orient Express	20m	7b
	R.P. Martin Scheel
52	Angelo Rosa	20m	7b+
53	Durlindana	25m	6c
54	Anny	25m	6c/7a
55	Pistacchio	25m	6b+
56	Spranghe	20m	5+
57	Fly down	20m	7a
58	Diedro della sbrega	40m	4a
59	Pedro	20m	5
60	Spigolo della sbrega	25m	5b

Befana - Sharura - Papillon

This sector moves rightwards past classics such as the technical Scharura del Sahara, to the overhanging Lampo d'argento and Befana. Demanding routes such as Papillon require refined footwork and brute force – the best of all possible worlds!

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
61	Melquiades	25m	6b
62	Macondo	25m	6b+
63	Macedonia	25m	6a
64	Etique etoc	20m	6b+
65	Più dolore per favore	20m	6c
66	Befana	20m	6c+
67	Via dei tedeschi	20m	7b
68	Eddi	20m	5a
69	Robins	30m	5+
70	Delirio alimentare	25m	6a+
71	Pink panter	25m	6b
72	Grillo parlante	25m	7a+
73	Scacciapuffi		5a
74	Camino classico		4
75	La baia degli arcobaleni	18m	6a
76	Lo sgombro	18m	6b
77	Orrenda	18m	6a
78	Excalibur	20m	6a+
79	Pippo pamir	25m	7a+
80	Scharura del Sahara	25m	7a
81	Ginevra	25m	7b
82	Fly dreams	20m	7b+
83	Trichomonas	20m	6a+
84	Aswan	18m	6c+
85	Beverly Hills		6b+
86	Marilyn	18m	6b
87	Var. diretta	18m	6a+
88	La 17	18m	5+
89	S.N.		6b
90	Coccodrillo crack	18m	5b/c
91	Lampo d'argento	20m	7a
92	Ma chére	20m	8a
93	Papillon	20m	7b
	R.P. Heinz Mariacher 1986
94	Jabba the Hut	20m	7b+
95	Technicolor	25m	7a
96	Miso rock	25m	8a
97	Soia climb		8b?
98	Mago della propoli	20m	7c
	Prima femminile: Luisa Iovane
99	I want your sex	20m	7a+
100	Fessura Mariacher	20m	6c
101	Diedro	20m	4
102	Physical	20m	6b
103	Hot dog	20m	6a
104	Emmenthal	20m	6c
105	(A+B)2	20m	6c

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