Nicholas Hobley
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The crag Fonzaso
Matteo Bicego
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6a - 8c+
Height
35m
Routes number
40
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
S
Rope
70m


Fonzaso certainly needs no big introduction. For long winters this historic crag located next to the San Micel hermitage has been the favourite spot for climbers from the Dolomites Feltre and Primiero region. Since the early '70's these climbers have slowly but surely pushed the art of technical climbing ever upwards to the unthinkable grades of 8c and 9a in this third millennium.

Obvioulsy this crag is intrinsically connected to the likes of Yuri Gadenz, Manolo and Riccardo Scarian and the crag, once shunned and unfashionable, is currently reliving a second moment of glory.

This band of compact grey and white limestone offers a selection of 40 technical routes marked by micro edges and pockets where stamina and above all excellent footwork are the key to success. Conditions pay an important role too and from 11 - 15 the winter sun creates a "micro-climate" which is ideal for these small holds. And if it is still too hot all you need to do is wait for the sun to disappear behind the mountain: it's now time for half an hour of perfect friction. This magical moment is often accompanied by a bonfire to keep hands and feet at just the right temperature

Access

Fonzaso is located circa 2 hours north of Venice at the start of the Italian Dolomites. Take the SS47 Val Sugana which heads north from Bassano del Grappa towards Trento and exit onto the SS50 bis for Feltre/Fiera di Primiero. Floow this, then turn off onto the SR50 for Fiera di Primiero and exit for Fonzaso after a couple of km. Reach the church in the center of the village, follow signs for "Eremo di San Micel" and park the car in the large town square. Continue of foot following the signs for the hermitage at first, then break off right and traverse beneath the rock band to reach the crag proper. Walk-in 20 minutes.

Period

Winter. The crag is located at 450m and is ideal on sunny winter days. In summer the crag resembles an oven.

Climb

Technical climbing on stratified limestone, small edges and shallow pockets. A route list is located next to the small stone hut.

Notes



The local climbing association Climband has recently rebolted the routes.

Bibliography

Falesie delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. Con le falesie Coi, Val Barance, Igne, Cajada, Maè, Podenzoi, Malcolm, Teatro, Casso, Erto, Cimolais, Polpet, Val Galina, Soverzene, Soccher, Dolada, Teverone, Quantin, Fadalto Basso, Ceresera, Mas, Le Rosse, Mis, Val Canzoi, Le Perine, Fonzaso, Tarzan Wall




Sectors

Il Corvo
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Top secret 6b+
2 All I want is you 6c
3 Il corvo 6c
4 Il castigo divino 6b
5 Pirulino 7a
La Casetta
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Sterminio di autotrofi 6b+/6c
2 Adrenalina a colazione 6b+
3 Adulterio e menzogna 7a
4 Apocalipse now 7a+/7b
4 Rave party 7c+
5 Vietato bussare 6c
6 Biancaneve 7a
7 Il parco della luna 7a+/7b
8 Profondo rosso 7b+
9 Off limits 8a+
10 Senza nome ?
11 Il Conte e dominator 7c+
12 La papamobile ?
13 Rociaviva 8a+
14 Belfagor 8b+
15 Intrepido pallino 8a+/8b
16 Diabloluna 8c
17 Il Gladiatore 8c+
18 Drum Time 9a
19 Senza nome ?
20 La vespa 7c
21 Violentenmente dolce 7c/7c+
22 Osteria delle dame 7c
23 Benares 7b
24 Oxigene 7a
25 Spit and Splash 7a
26 Malefica pioggia 7a
27 Ragnatela 7a
28 Blues and Jazz 7a+/7b
29 Phantom 6b+/6c
30 Tarantola 7b





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6a - 8c+
Height
35m
Routes number
40
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
S
Rope
70m


Position



Crags in the same region


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