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Poema de Roca, El Chorro, Spain
Roberto Casanova
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 8a
Height
50 metri
Routes number
27
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SE
Rope
70m
This crag is situated in a depression beneath "Las Frontales", a rocky buttress to the NE of El Chorro. Most routes are steeply overhanging and considered some of the best in the area. "Poema de Roca", the route that gives the crag its name, is easily identifiable by the hanging belay seats that lead up this 6 pitch wonder.Located high above the valley, the views from this crag are superb.
Access
Getting there is easy and quick: follow the road from El Chorro station towards the Abdagalis valley, turn left at the fork (water cistern), shortly afterwards turn right and then left again. After a small opening where cars can be parked a steep path leads up to the crag. Logistics
Accommodation is not a problem in El Chorro. Visitors can choose from a campsite, the characteristic climbers' "refugio", the hotel next to the station and many welcoming "fincas".Finca la Campana, run by John and Christine, is friendly and highly recommended. e-mail el-chorro@el-chorro.com. Period
Since it faces SE climbing takes place on windy days, in the evening and definitely not during summer. Climb
Sustained overhanging stamina routes. Notes
Instead of turning left at the cistern continue along the main road to Las Encantadas, highly recommended for easier, vertical routes.
El Camino del Rey - El Chorro
Bibliography
El Chorro by Mark Glaister
Getting there is easy and quick: follow the road from El Chorro station towards the Abdagalis valley, turn left at the fork (water cistern), shortly afterwards turn right and then left again. After a small opening where cars can be parked a steep path leads up to the crag. Logistics
Accommodation is not a problem in El Chorro. Visitors can choose from a campsite, the characteristic climbers' "refugio", the hotel next to the station and many welcoming "fincas".Finca la Campana, run by John and Christine, is friendly and highly recommended. e-mail el-chorro@el-chorro.com. Period
Since it faces SE climbing takes place on windy days, in the evening and definitely not during summer. Climb
Sustained overhanging stamina routes. Notes
Instead of turning left at the cistern continue along the main road to Las Encantadas, highly recommended for easier, vertical routes.
El Camino del Rey - El Chorro
Bibliography
El Chorro by Mark Glaister
Sectors
El Chorro - Poema De Roca
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Kervala | 35m | 8b | |
2 | Maquina cualquiera | 7a+, 6c+, 7a+, 7b+, 7a+,6 b+ | ||
3 | El complot | 27m | 8a+ | |
4 | La villa strangiato | 15m | 7b | |
5 | Eye of the Storm | 19m | 7c | |
6 | Thunder struck | 19m | 7c+ | |
7 | Swimming Through a Shark Attack | 19m | 8a+ | |
8 | Shark extention | 26m | 8b | |
9 | Poema de Roca | 23m | 7a | |
10 | Viejos rockeros | 24m | 8a+ | |
11 | Poema de Roca | 7a, 8a+, 7b, 7c+, 7a, 6c | ||
12 | Licantropia de plenilunio | 12m | 7c | |
13 | Rima libra | 23m | 7c+ | |
14 | Viejo traidor | 25m | 7b+ | |
15 | Morritos jaeger | 24m | 7b | |
16 | Viejo amigo | 23m | 7a | |
17 | Newie | 22m | 6b+ | |
18 | Garcia aguas | 22m | 6b,8a | |
19 | Escorpion | 23 | 5+ | |
20 | The splits | 20m | 7a+ | |
21 | Slimbo | 20m | 7b | |
22 | Stonker | 20m | 6b | |
23 | La Princesa Carol | 20m | 5+ | |
24 | Talibania | 28m | 8a | |
25 | Vivac porus | 28m | 7a+ | |
26 | El senor de las tinieblas | 6b+, 6a+, 6a | ||
27 | Fahrenheit | 10m | 6c |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 8a
Height
50 metri
Routes number
27
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SE
Rope
70m
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