Archidona - La Cueva

Spain>Andalusia>Archidona
Roberto Casanova
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Climbing at La Cueva in Andalusia, Spain
Roberto Casanova
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 9a
Height
45 metri
Rock type
Limestone.
Orientation
NW
Rope
70m


Does the intense Spanish sun make climbing impossible? Or do long winter drizzles threaten to ruin your trip to Andalusia even before you get there? Don’t despair, for not far from Archidona there’s a crag where you can climb whatever the weather. La Cueva is a surprisingly large overhanging crag where the routes are long, hard and pumpy. The holds are large, but never quite large enough! If you can climb the grade you’ll definitely have fun here, especially after a day or two of getting used to the angle of the rock. For those who want to know, this is also the place of "Orujo", Spain’s first 9a and a mere 45m long!
Access
Archidona is a small village close to the A-92 motorway. The enormous cave is visible from the road: it is reached by turning left immediately before entering the village and continuing on a white road for a few minutes between the olive groves to the crag. Logistics
Archidona and Loja are located near Granada and are not as developed as the many nearby seaside tourist resorts. Accommodation is therefore harder to find: Archidona's recently restructured hotel Escua is recommended, and should it prove necessary, then hotels can be found in nearby Antequera. Granada is 50 min away from Loja. Period
Spring Notes
La Olla, a vertical sector, is situated opposite La Cueva Bibliography
To our knowledge, Archidona and Loja are not covered by any guidebooks; articles have appeared in the Spanish Escalar, and the climbing shop in nearby Antequera can be relied on for information.



Sectors

Archidona - La Cueva
The routes from right to left.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Demolition man 7a+
2 Gurù 6c
3 Carbono 14 8b+
4 Precario del calvario 7c+
5 Danza agresiva 7a+/7b+ lunga
6 Campo amargo 8a/8a+ lunga
7 La perita del perito 7b
8 Antonia 7c
9 Piolin 7b/c
10 Primera lìnea 7b
11 ?
12 Orujo 9a
13 Alpechin 8c+
14 Kalliste 8c
15 ? ?
16 ? 5
17 ? 5
18 Posiblemente lluevan piedras 7a+
19 La canal 5+/6a
20 ? 7a+
21 Amantis silenciosa 7a





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