Capo d'Uomo
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Eraldo Meraldi, Guida Alpina
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Eraldo Meraldi
Capo d'Uomo is a beautiful crag situated in an enchanting surroundings, dominated by the ruins of an ancient watchtower overlooking the Mediterranean Sea where splendid colours blend with the sky, rendering this cliff unique. Capo d’Uomo is a fantastic white and grey limestone vertical slab with crimps and shallow pockets, resulting in technical stamina climbing.
Equipped by Roman and local climbers in the mid '90's, due to its proximity to the sea the bolts were somewhat worse for wear. The crag has been recently re-equipped with stainless steel bolts thanks to the financial support of the Grosseto branch of the Italian Alpine Club and new routes have been added by Valtellina Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi who, armed with never-ending patience, has restored this crag back to its former glory. Unjustly fallen into disuse, Capo d’Uomo all’Argentario is now, once again, one of the most beautiful sea cliffs in Italy.
Reach the island of Argentario in Tuscany and drive to Porto Santo Stefano. At the first roundabout at the port turn left and drive up Vallone del Campone for circa 3,5 km. At the fork turn off left and park immediately after having driven over the hill, with view onto the sea. Walk down the dirt road to circa 300m, take the road right to reach the large curve which ascends upwards. From here take the path which breaks off left to then follow the ridge towards to the tower. Close to the tower scramble down the short steep terrain to reach the base of the cliff (15-20 min).
PeriodClimbing is possible in all seasons in this crag of rare beauty.
NotesGuide Alpine Alta Valtellina
www.guidealpinealtavaltellina.it
info@guidealpinealtavaltellina.it
Routes
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Capo d’Uomo | 22m | |
6a |
| 2 | Il mare d’inverno | 22m | |
5c |
| 3 | L’isola persa | 22m | |
5c |
| 4 | Histeria | 22m | |
6a |
| 5 | Pilastro Bonatti | 28m | |
6a+ |
| 6 | Stalattiti | 28m | |
5c+ |
| 7 | Omega | 28m | |
6a |
| 8 | Spirito saraceno | 28m | |
6b |
| 9 | Fulmicotone | 30m | |
6c+ |
| 10 | Barabba | 20m | |
6c |
| 11 | Le confessioni di Suor Germana | 25m | |
6b+ |
| 12 | Capo Caccia | 28m, 18m | |
6b+, 6b |
| 13 | Il sogno di Maria | 20m | |
6a |
| 14 | Gab | 20m, 30m | |
6a+, 6c |
| 15 | Aiutati che Dio t’aiuta | 22m, 30m | |
6a, 5c |
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