Angelika Rainer chiude i conti con Ironman a Eptingen

Ad Angelika Rainer non piace lasciare conti in sospeso. Infatti, dopo aver provato invano la via Ironman alcuni anni fa, l’altro giorno è finalmente venuta a capo di questa difficilissimo test di total dry tooling nella falesia di Eptingen in Svizzera.

La via era stata liberata nel gennaio del 2012 da Robert Jasper e all’epoca con il suo grado di D14+ era la via di tolta dry più difficile al mondo. Già nel marzo di quell’anno Rainer aveva iniziato a provare la linea e nel 2013 era persino riuscita ad arrivare agli ultimi movimenti facili quando le è esplosa una presa. La delusion era così grande che per sei anni non è mai tornata sotto lo strapiombo, fino all’altro giorno quando è riuscita nell rotpunkt.

Pur avendo ripetuto vie più difficili come il D15 A Line Above the Sky nella falesia di drytooling di Tomorrow's World in Dolomiti, Ironman rimaneva un conto in sospeso. Adesso non più.

Link: FB Angelika Rainer, www.angelika-rainer.com, La Sportiva, Grivel

 

 

 

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Finally settling an old dept. Ironman, D14+ . There is no better way I could have finished 2019 and with it the decade I dedicated myself so much to the climbing with iceaxes! . This is quite a long story. I tried this route for the first time in March 2012, shortly after the first ascent by the strong @robertjasper_official. Then it was the hardest drytooling route in the world and quite a bit harder than the routes I had done but I was immediately interested in trying it. More than 1.5 years later, after some tries I made it all the way through the horizontal roof, I was shaking out my hands at the last quickdraw before the last quite easy moves to the ancor, when the hold I was on exploded and I was dangling in the air. It had cost me so much motivation to try a route so close to my absolute limit, that the disappointment was huge. I did not come back to the route for 6 years. This year, after having climbed harder routes than Ironman in the past years, I finally decided to come back to this old, open bill. I stil had quite some respect, or even fear. The route stil made itself desire quite a bit. It took me 3 visits in Switzerland until I finally clipped this ancor. . Sorry for this long story, but it was really an important one for me . . Thanks for the lucky belay @nikolayprimerov and thank you @marco_serva for always believing in me, even when I don’t do it. And for the . . . #drytooling #iceclimbing #climbing #climb #climbinglife #climbinggirls #climbing_lovers #climbing_is_my_passion #climbdifferent #weareclimbers

A post shared by Angelika Rainer (@angelika_rainer) on Dec 30, 2019 at 11:23am PST