Messy Dreamers - Peak Slesova Contrafforte Sud
Bella via di 500m sul Contrafforte Sud di Peak Slesova, aperta da Alessandra Prato e Camilla Reggio nell'estate del 2024.
Dame for Ulugh. But start before the ledge (2 pitches), Cross the colouir, on the right of a dihedral.
ItinerarioP1: Start on white rock on the right of an evident dihedral. Follow thin cracks (2 pitons), then slabby move to the right until the anchor. 40m
P2: Obvious rightwards crack until the ledge. 45m
P3: Hard smeary move, then athletic passage to reach the evident rightwards crack. Follow it until the end. 40m
P4: Easy dihedral with some grassy ledges. 40m
P5: Follow the small crack until evident dihedral on the left. Climb it until the end. 40m
P6: Follow the thin crack, then straight forward to a technical section (2 bolts, 1 piton). Traverse to the right for about 15 meters. 40m
P7: Follow the ramp for about 15 meters until evident dihedral. Start to climb it on the right side for a thin crack (hard to protect at the beginning). Climb the widening crack until the end. 40m
P8: Start on the thin crack, traverse to the left (bolt), continue on the vertical flake (piton), then very technical slab-traverse on the right (possible A0, 3 bolts). Follow the vertical crack until the anchor (bolt + stopper). 40m
P9: Evident rightwards arch/ dihedral, then traverse on detached flakes, 2 bolts(attention!). Straight dihedral until the anchor. 40m
P10: Straight, logical cracks; traverse to the right, clip the anchor of “Un train pour l’espace” and continue on the left. 30m
P11: Straight forwards for easy cracks and flakes. 30m
P12: Traverse to the left (bolt); straight for few meters (piton), then traverse to the left following a little crack for about 15 meters (bolt in the middle). 30m
P13: Go straight for logical cracks and turn right before the ramp. 30m
P14: Go straight for few meters then turn definitely right climbing some flakes and unstable blocks. Anchor under the vertical of subpeak. 25m
From here it is possible to scramble to the top or
P15: Dihedral leftwards, and traverse to the left when the crack finishes. Traverse to the left and climb up the ramp ascending to the right (athletic move). Follow the crack until the end and meet “Ulugh” piton. 25m
Materiale2 set of cams until #3 and one #4
Double micro #0.1 and #0.2