Rainbow Slab - Llanberis slate

Wales>Snowdonia>Gwynedd>Llanberis
Nicholas Hobley, photos Simon Carter
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Rainbow Slab – Llanberis slate
Simon Carter
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
E1 - F8b+
Height
50m
Routes number
24
Rock type
Slate
Orientation
North
Rope
Twin ropes.


Rainbow Slab is arguably the jewel in the crown of Llanberis slate. The immense, smooth face is broken by a series of smaller ripples and of course by the rainbow itself, a pulsing vein which arches steeply in all its beauty from right to left. The vast majority of the routes were established during the mid 1980's, mixing highly technical moves with extremely bold face climbing. John Redhead and Dave Towse left their mark here like none other, creating one classic after the next, such as Cystitis by Proxy, the first route up the slab, Poetry Pink with its tricky mantle to clip the bolt just above half-height, the run-out Splitstream and nightmare Raped by Affection. One of the hardest slabs in the world, The Very Big and the Very Small, was first ascended by none other than gritstone and slate guru Johnny Dawes, and this can be eyed from the nearby Pull My Daisy, a strong contender for one of the most popular routes on slate.
Access
Drive out of Llanberis and cross the lake to reach the slate museum. Leave the car as for Vivian Quarry at the Gilfach Ddu car park and walk up the steep incline. After the winding house the incline levels off and the path bears left: cross the fence and follow the path rightwards, down across a small stream and past Colossus Wall to the Rainbow Slab. Logistics
Accommodation in Llanberis, ranging from hotels and B&B's to campsites. Pete's Eats is the tradional climber's hangout for meals, while The Heights is the climber's pub. Period
Summer. The crag dries quickly after rain. Climb
High rockovers, technical face climbing, small crimps, very little friction. The protection varies considerably from one route to the next, and very few are to be considered sport routes as most require a mix of bolts and tiny, run-out wires. Notes
At its peak during the second half of the 19th century, the slate mining industry dominated the economy in North Wales, employing almost 17000 men at quarries dotted around the country including the immense sites at Blaenau Ffestiniog, Bethesda and Llanberis. Entire hillsides were transformed irreversibly as Welsh slate was exported worldwide, but with the advent of cheap roofing tiles the industry showed the first signs of decline at the turn of the century, and then collapsed after the Second World War.

The Dinorwic quarry above Llanberis was the second largest mine in North Wales and when it closed definitively in 1969 it left behind a wasteland of vast proportions. The entire area was abandoned for years and it wasn't until the early 1980's that climbers ventured into the complex system of mines to explore this vertical Eden, discovering fantastic crags such as Vivian Quarry, the Seamstress slab, Bus Stop Quarry and of course Rainbow Slab.


Johnny Dawes e Paul Pritchard, taken from the film Welsh Connections


Bibliography
"Llanberis slate" by Ground Up Climbing Media (2011)



Sectors

Rainbow Slab - Llanberis slate
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Freak Yer Beanbag E5 6b
2 Cabbage Man meets the Flying Death Leg E2 5c
1986, Paul Pritchard, G Hughes
3 Red and Yellow and Pink and Green, Orange and Purple and Blue E1 5a
1984, M Lynden
4 The Richard of York Finish E3 5b
1984, M Lyden, W Lockley
5 Eros E2 5b
1984, M Lyden, S Long, J Silvester, D Towse
6 Pull My Daisy E2 5c
1984, M Lynden, J Silvester
7 Chewing the Cwd E5 6b
8 Released From Treatment E6 6b
1986, Dave Towse, John Redhead
9 Naked before the Beast E6 6b/c
1984, Dave Towse, John Redhead
10 The Rainbow of Recalcitrance E6 6b
1984, J Silvester, M Lynden
11 The Cure for a Sick Mind E7 7a
1987, Paul Pritchard
12 Memorable Stains E4 6a
13 Bungles Arete F8b
14 Poetry Pink E5 6a
1984, John Redhead, Dave Towse
15 The Very Big and the Very Small F8b+
1990, Johnny Dawes
16 Raped by Affection E7 6c
1984, John Redhead, Dave Towse
17 Ringing' in Urea's E6 6b
18 Cystitis by Proxy E5 6b
1984, Dave Towse, John Redhead
19 Splitstream E5 6b
1986, Dave Towse, John Redhead
20 Stiff Syd's Cap E6 6c
1986, John Redhead, Dave Towse
21 Prick my Urea's E6 6c
22 DOA E6 6c
1986, Rob Drury, John Allen
23 Drury Lane E6 6b
1986, Rob Drury, John Allen
24 Jai'a'n E6 6b





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
E1 - F8b+
Height
50m
Routes number
24
Rock type
Slate
Orientation
North
Rope
Twin ropes.


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