Lower Pen Trwyn

Wales>Snowdonia>Conwy>Llandudno
Nicholas Hobley
1 / 9
Jerry Moffatt making the first ascent of Liquid Ambar (F8c/+) at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales in 1990. Liquid Ambar is dedicated to the memory of Jerry’s younger brother, Toby.
Kurt Albert
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6a - 9a
Routes number
60
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
East
Rope
70m


One of the finest sport climbing crags in North Wales, Lower Pen Trywn on the Great Orme just north of the seaside resort Llandudno hosts circa 60 routes up to 9a. The main brunt of climbing was developed during the mid '80s and includes a string of three star classics such as Ben Moon's 1984 masterpiece Statement of Youth. Although not the hardest route at the time, in many ways this 8a heralded the real start of the sport climbing revolution in Great Britain.

The crag is famous above all for another two iconic routes. The first is Liquid Ambar, Jerry Moffatt's 1990 masterpiece originally graded 8c but now widely considered to be 8c+, and The Big Bang, Britain's first ever 9a established by Neil Carson in 1996 and still unrepeated...

Other superb sport climbs include I've been a bad, bad boy 7c+ (Mark Pretty, 1988), Over the Moon 8a (Andy Pollitt, 1988) and Melancholie 8b (Adam Wainwright, 1992) as well as some easier lines such as Face race 7a+ on the left and Under the Boardwalk 6c on the right-hand side of the crag, next to the classic trad climbs Twisting by the Pool and Jacuzzi Jive.

As the name suggests Lower Pen Trywn, or simply LPT, is the lower tier of Pen Trwyn and is located at sea level. Climbing is possible at low tide only, adding a touch of spice to the ambient since although the sea may look a long way away, when the tides turn, the water comes back extremely quickly indeed. Make sure you're not locked on a project!

Access

From Llandudno drive north towards Great Orme/Marine Drive. After the bouldering area Parisella's Cave climb over the wall and scramble down the steep slope to reach the shore and crag.

Logistics

Accommodation of all sorts in Llandudno, alternatively, Llanberis is only half an hour away.

Period

Spring, summer, autumn. The crag recieves the morning sun. Lower Pen Trwyn is affected by the tide and as such can only be climbed on for about 6 hours around low tide. Check the tide timetable prior to your trip.

Climb

Steep and slightly overhanging limestone climbing, mainly up crimps. Beware of the starts which often feel extremely greasy.

Notes

LPT is the lower tier of Pen Trwyn, and Upper Pen Trwyn immediately above the private Marine Drive offers a class selection of sport climbs and trad routes.

For detailed information about climbing at Lower Pen Trwyn check out northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com

Bibliography

"North Wales Rock" by Ground Up Climbing Media (2006)




Sectors

Lower Pen Trwyn
Selection of recommended climbs.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Under the Boardwalk 6c
Martin Atkinson, Andy Pollitt, 1984
2 Night Glue 7a+
Andy Pollitt, 1984
3 Face Race 7a+
Steve Lewis / Mark Pretty, 1984
4 Mean Mother 7b
Steve Lewis / Mark Pretty, 1984.
5 Statement of Youth 8a
Ben Moon, 1984
6 Over the Moon 8a
Andy Pollitt, 1988
7 Battle of the Little Big Orme 8a
Chris Plant, 1990
8 Liquid Ambar 8c
Jerry Moffatt, 1990
9 Sea of Tranquility 8c+
Ben Moon, 1993
10 The Big Bang 9a
Neil Carson, 1996
11 Jacuzzi Jive E4 6a
Dave Lyon, Chris Lyon, 1983
12 Twisting by the Pool E4 6a
Dave Lyon, Chris Lyon, 1983





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6a - 9a
Routes number
60
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
East
Rope
70m


Position



Crags in the same region


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