Planetmountain
1 / 2
Super Ponzio
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
S. Dibona, G. Peretti e G. Salton, 1984
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SW
Length
300m
Difficulty
6c
Obligatory difficulty
6a

Route



One of the original lines up the face, this nice route zigzags up through the easiest vertical sections to the right of the large corner (Los Angeles). All belays are equipped with bolts or pegs.

Getting there

From Cortina drive towards Dobbiaco along the SS51. After the small village Fiames turn left off the main road (signposted Val di Fanes - Trevenanzes). Park the car at the entrance to the park and continue on foot. Follow signs for Fanes, over several bridges and along the forest road. After a few bends the path straightens out and continues along the valley floor, past the Taé walls on the right, and then on to the Spalti di Col Becchei. The path forks at this point; go right over a small bridge onto the other side of the valley floor towards the Spalti. A cairn indicates a small path leading off rightwards through the wood steeply up to the rock face. To reach Illusione Ottica and Thriller scramble up the scree, traverse leftwards along an exposed section beneath a band of rock, and then return rightwards. The other routes are reached more easily by walking directly up to the base of the crag. Taé’s routes are reached by crossing the bridge and briefly following the road, to then ascend the gully on the right. Reach the pine trees and then scramble up the ramp rightwards to the base of the wall.

Access

Start to the right of Los Angeles, to the right of two large roofs in the lower section of the wall.

Descent

From the top scramble follow the trail along the exposed, grassy ledge westwards. Follow the poor tracks downhill for another 400 meters until you reach a twisted fir tree at the edge of the wall (small cairn), with threads and abseil carabiners. Abseil 30 meters straight down to a pine tree with threads and abseil carabiner. Abseil 30 meters straight down to reach the next ledge with a tree. From here follow the track eastwards for 10 meters to reach another pine tree with threads and abseil carabiners. From here with another 3 x 25m abseils lead to the base of the wall.

Gear

Although the harder sections have pegs or bolts, bring a set of wires and friends.





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20/06/2005 Angelo
Nel decimo tiro ho salito tutto il diedro (bellissimo) non vedendo logica nell'uscire a sinistra sulle placche (sosta da attrezzare con dadi e friends e cordino lungo).Abbiamo poi traversato a sx sotto i grandi tetti per ricongiungerci alla via originale alla sosta prima del 12° tiro.Pochi chiodi nella parte alta.
07/10/2003 Luca di Parma
Bella e piuttosto impegnativa per la chiodatura scarsa e la difficoltà di individuazione nei tratti in obliquo. I tiri sotto il 5+ sono sprotetti, specie nella parte alta. Nel nono tiro ci si protegge bene con i friend medi, mentre nel dodicesimo c'è un tratto di circa 10-15 metri, su roccia eccezionalmente lavorata ma assolutamente improteggibile.