Saga di Valle Bavona - Gendarm de Gramüsèd
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Saga di Valle Bavona
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Thomas Wolf, Stephan Isensee 01/02/09/2012. FFA: Wolf 03/09/2012
By
Thomas Wolf
Orientation
NE
Length
205m
Difficulty
8a+
Obligatory difficulty
7a
205m high climb established by Stephan Isensee and Thomas Wolf up Gendarm de Gramüsèd, to the left of Il mito della Caverna with difficulties in the region of 7c+/8a.
Getting there
The Gendarm de Gramüsèd is situated approximately 3 km west of Bignasco. Enter the Valle Bavone from Bignasco and drive till you see the wall clearly on the left. There is only one brige you can pass the river with the car. (Water-power-plant). There you can park. Access
From the bridge follow a steep dry riverbed (from melting water) straight uphill until it gets to steep (15-20 minutes). Then go 50m rigth uphill along a wall till you see some fix ropes traversing along some ledges. After the ropes walk sidewards (North-West) till you reach the base of the wall. (30 minutes from the car) Itinerary
P1: 6a+, 35m
P2: 6b, 18m
P3: 6c+, 35m
P4: 6b, 20m
P5: 7b, 32m
P6: 7c+/8a, 35m
P7: 6b, 30m Descent
Rappel the route. In pitch 5 and pitch 6 some bolts have to be clipped to reach the belay. Gear
12 draws, Metolius Mastercams 0-6 , Camelot C4 #2 for the end of pitch 3 (optional another #2 Camelot for the same pitch). Minimum 2 x 50 m ropes or one (70 m rope is just long enough)
The Gendarm de Gramüsèd is situated approximately 3 km west of Bignasco. Enter the Valle Bavone from Bignasco and drive till you see the wall clearly on the left. There is only one brige you can pass the river with the car. (Water-power-plant). There you can park. Access
From the bridge follow a steep dry riverbed (from melting water) straight uphill until it gets to steep (15-20 minutes). Then go 50m rigth uphill along a wall till you see some fix ropes traversing along some ledges. After the ropes walk sidewards (North-West) till you reach the base of the wall. (30 minutes from the car) Itinerary
P1: 6a+, 35m
P2: 6b, 18m
P3: 6c+, 35m
P4: 6b, 20m
P5: 7b, 32m
P6: 7c+/8a, 35m
P7: 6b, 30m Descent
Rappel the route. In pitch 5 and pitch 6 some bolts have to be clipped to reach the belay. Gear
12 draws, Metolius Mastercams 0-6 , Camelot C4 #2 for the end of pitch 3 (optional another #2 Camelot for the same pitch). Minimum 2 x 50 m ropes or one (70 m rope is just long enough)
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Beauty
First ascent
Thomas Wolf, Stephan Isensee 01/02/09/2012. FFA: Wolf 03/09/2012
By
Thomas Wolf
Orientation
NE
Length
205m
Difficulty
8a+
Obligatory difficulty
7a
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