El Chaman Loco - El Chaman

Planetmountain
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During the first ascent of El Chaman Loco, El Salto, Mexico (Simone Pedeferri, Paolo Marazzi, Marco Maggioni 11/2015)
archivio Paolo Marazzi
Beauty
First ascent
Marco Maggioni, Paolo Marazzi, Simone Pedeferri 11/2015
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
North
Length
400m
Difficulty
8c?
Obligatory difficulty
7a+

Route



In November 2015 Simone Pedeferri, Paolo Marazzi and Marco Maggioni made the first ascent of El Chaman Loco up the El Chaman face at El Salto, Mexico. 4 pitches remained to be freed, with difficulties estimated at 8c. On 28 January 2025 Connor Runge from Canada successfully freed all pitches, the estaimated grades of which are listed below. At present, the single day free ascent is still outstanding.

Itinerary

5.8, 5.10, 5.3, 5.13a, 5.13, 5.12-, 5.14-, 5.13, 5.14a (?), 5.11, 5.13-, 5.12+

Descent

Abseil down the route

Gear

15 quickdraws





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Beauty
First ascent
Marco Maggioni, Paolo Marazzi, Simone Pedeferri 11/2015
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
North
Length
400m
Difficulty
8c?
Obligatory difficulty
7a+

Route



Routes in the same mountain group

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