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Cojote - Vadena / Pareti di Monticolo

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Florian Riegler

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Cojote (100m, 7a max), a new crack climb on Pareti di Monticolo (Bolzano, South Tyrol).

Christoph Vonmetz

Beauty

First ascent

Florian Riegler, Martin Riegler 05/2013

Florian Riegler

Orientation

South

Difficulty

Route

Cojote follows a series of beautiful cracks for 4 pitches (100m) and is broken only by a series of comfortable and airy belay ledges. While the climbing is never more difficult than 7a max, according to Florian Riegler it is always extremely beautiful. All belays are protected by bolts, while the pitches require a set of Friends for protection, above all mix-sizes. A 60m rope is sufficient, also for the abseil down the route, while the entire ascent should take 3 hours.

Getting there

For those arriving from the south exit the A22 at in Egna - Ora, for those coming from the north exi at Bolzano Sud. Follow signs for Monticolo and turn off right before reaching Hotel Moser and reach a small parking lot.

Access

From here continue on foot up the forest road, through the woods, heading towards the rock face. Once you reach the height of the television antennas scramble to the rock face, calculate circa 30 minutes.

Itinerary

P1: 35m, VII
P2: 20m, VIII
P3: 20m, VII
P4: 30m, VIII
P5: 30m, VII
P6: 20m, VI

Notes

Coyote was first identified and cleaned by Martin Riegler in 2008 but then, also becuase no one thought it could be interesting, he failed to find other partners until last May when together with his brother Florian he made the first free ascent of this interesting crack line. The route receives the shade and a fresh breeze in the afternoon, making it a great outing close to Bozen to sample the beauty of this style of climbing.

Maps/Bibliography

Red Rocks 2.0 - Mehrseillängen Klettern im Südtiroler Porphyr - AVS