The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

9
Routes in archive
I 3 Orchi
I 3 Orchi - Val di Enghe
WI6, M9+
I 3 Orchi, the The 3 Orcs, is a beautiful mixed climb close to Sappada. The first two pitches follow L’orco va in vacanza. Pitch three crosses curtains, drips and some cauliflower-like formations. Reach the belay after a delicate traverse. According to...
Kofler
Kofler - Reintal
II/4+
Nice icefall, one of the best in the area, not to be missed. Even if it faces SW the icefall receives the sun at the start of February only.
La Bella Addormentata
La Bella Addormentata
6+
Beautiful icefall located close to Lochere close to Lake Caldonazzo in the Valsugana, right at the start of the narrow Val Scura. This drip rarely, if ever, comes into contiona and since it's situated at a low altitude it offers...
Leben ist jetzt
Leben ist jetzt - Reintal
IV / M7+ / ice 80/90 degrees
The first pitch starts 10m to the left of the route "Pustertaler - Halbgefrohrenes". The pegs are clearly visible on this first section, and the first belay is shared with "Pustertaler - Halbgefrohrenes". The second pitch climbs left above the...
L’Orco non va mai in vacanza
L’Orco non va mai in vacanza - Val di Enghe
WI4+, M5
A pleasant and logical mixed climb to the right of the famous Anche l’Orco va in vacanza (Even the Ogre Goes on Holiday). Overall, the difficulty is moderate, but the line is very enjoyable, a perfect combination with the other icefalls nearby. It certainly deserves...
MFG
MFG - Rastentalfall
M9, WI6
The mixed climb MFG is located on the Rastentalfall, to the left of the classic "Crazy Diamond". The outing is a beautiful mixed climb that ascends, via a series of good hooks, thin cracks and hanging ice daggers.
No Country for Old Men
No Country for Old Men - Koflerbach
M9 / WI5
Demanding mixed climb immediately to the left of Räuber Hotzenplotz and therefore to the left of the famous icefall Koflerbach close to Sand in Taufers. Pitches 3 and 4 offer some challenging mixed climbing past thin ice. The crux on...
Räuber Hotzenplotz
Räuber Hotzenplotz - Koflerbach
M9 / WI5
Difficult mixed climb to the left of the famous icefall Koflerbach close to Sand in Taufers. The final 6 meters on the last pitch require huge power and stamina.
Utopia
Utopia - Rastentalfall
M7+/WI5
"One of the most beautiful routes I know of these difficulties. The combination of rock, ice and frozen turf make it unique." Utopia was climbed onsight, without adding bolts, all pegs used were left in-situ.


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