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Cevedale - Zufallspitze

Italy>Rhaetian Alps>Ortles Cevedale

Eraldo Meraldi, Mountain Guide

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Cevedale - Zufallspitze: Ascent of Monte Cevedale via Vedretta di Cedec

Planetmountain

Beauty

Eraldo Meraldi, Mountain Guide

Difficulty

MSA / final section - BSA

Period

From the start of March to mid May.

Route

Mount Cevedale is one of the most popular ski mountaineering routes in the entire Ortles - Cevedale massif because it joins three valleys, Valfurva, Val di Pejo and Val Martello and can also be reached from Val di Solda. Set within an extraordinary glacial basin, it can be accessed relatively easily thanks to the numerous mountain huts nearby. Furthermore, it is central to the Ortles – Cevedale mountain range and is the heart of the Stelvio National Park.

Itinerary
Classic route from the Vedretta di Cedec: From Rifugio Forni follow the easy trail which initially ascends two steep hairpin bends, then it levels out to he right to circumvent the ridge and enter Val Cedec. Continue gently to reach the Pizzini hut. The track is always beaten and the route is both simple and obvious. From here continue NE to almost the start of the cable used to transport gear to Rifugio Casati. Just before this turn right, eastwards, traverse below the obvious line of rocks that leads to Monte Cevedale. Keep to the left of the glacier and reach the wide plateau at about 3200m. Head east, ascend the steep slope and exit to the right to follow the dip that leads to the final plateau above. This gradually leads to the base of the steep slope; cut diagonally across this to the right and you reach the lower pre-summit on the NE Ridge. The summit is now reached more easily where the cross awaits. Ascent time : 3- 5 hours depending on snow conditions. Altitude difference: 1591m Orientation: S-W-NW-N Descent
Descend down the ascent route.