Michaela Kiersch climbs Dreamtime to make first female ascent of Fred Nicole’s Cresciano masterpiece

The news just in from Cresciano in Switzerland is astounding: Michaela Kiersch has repeated Dreamtime, the world’s first 8C boulder, put up by Fred Nicole on 28 October 2000. In doing so, Kiersch has become the first woman to repeat what over time has become one of, if not the, most famous boulder problem in the world. 

Right from the start of the new millennium the rising traverse line nestled deep in the chestnut forest captured the imagination of the world’s best and quickly transformed into a coveted rite-of-passage. Despite a broken hold and endless debates about the grade, over the last 24 years the problem has lost absolutely none of its aura. Kiersch’s ascent on Saturday is a moment for that will go down in climbing history. Here are the first details directly from the 29-year-old who, in sending Dreamtime, La Rambla at Siurana and Victima Perfecta at Margalef, is now the first woman to climb 8C and 9a+, or, viewed on the US grading scale, V15 and 5.15.

Michaela congrats!!! The first question is obvious, but nevertheless we'd like to ask it. Why Dreamtime? And how long had you thought of trying this?
Dreamtime is arguably one of the most famous and most beautiful boulders in the world - I think this puts it at the top of anyone’s list of dream boulders. I had just begun climbing when Fred established it as the world’s very first V15. I’m honored that now it is also mine!

Can you tell us a bit about the process?
When I arrived in Ticino it was horribly rainy and humid which left nearly everything wet. The only things I could try even a few moves on were the bottom of Dreamtime and Story of Two Worlds. On the first dry day I was able to complete all of the moves (except for the topout, which I was a little too afraid to try alone without a spotter). From there I decided to just keep focusing on Dreamtime!

Had you tried it before? And what was the hard bit?
I first tried Dreamtime Stand Start in 2022 just after I sent my first 9a+/5.15a La Rambla. I went to Ticino for a brief vacation trip to celebrate my sport climbing achievements. At the time, I felt that I was in the best shape of my life but I could barely hold the crimps and was not even close to doing the moves of the 8A+. Fast forward to now, after months of training and increasing my level it all came together relatively quickly. I sent on my 7th session this trip, without counting the day I tried in 2022.

Is it true that you often tried it on your own?
I came to Ticino alone and focused, and it is the first time I’ve done an extended trip by myself. This has been a very transformative experience. In the end, it was a perfect sunny morning in Cresciano and I found myself on top of Dreamtime. It felt surreal and extremely personal.

This comes after a superb run of form. And a fractured finger… What did this injury show you?
This injury bolstered my mental fortitude and capacity to work through perceived challenges and setbacks. An important reminder that part of the process is completely out of our control and that success comes from mastering the moments, one at a time. 

Kiersch thanks her sponsors: La Sportiva, Petzl, Organic Climbing

 

 

 

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