Ivan Peri reaches Monte Carlo after walking for 80 days Across the Alps

ACROSS THE ALPS. IVAN REACHED MONTE CARLO
Ivan did it, he's made his dream come true. After having walked for 80 days, covered 2100km and ascended and descended 120,000 vertical metres, on 30 August he reached Monte Carlo, the final stage of his traverse across the Alps that started on 12 June at Trieste.
We met Ivan a few days ago at his home in Livigno where, after his holiday walk in the mountains, he has already started to lay the foundations for another dream of his: build his own house and B&B. Ivan welcomed us in with an enormous smile that beamed through his thick beard, a daily reminder of an journey he will never want to forget.

Ivan, we left you in Val Senales after your first 27 days of walking. What happened next?
From Val Senales I headed west towards the lower Engadina and this was briefly followed by a quick trip across the border into Italy at Passo dello Spluga before returning back into Switzerland and spending a couple of days in the impervious Ticino valleys as I made my way up to the St. Gotthard Pass. After this I returned into Italian territory via the amazing upper Val Formazza and from there I negotiated a difficult ascent up steep snow slopes below Monte Leone to reach the Sempione Pass and enter Switzerland's Valais, where I walked up the righthand side of the vast Rodano valley, climbing past the wild peaks in the
Wildhorn and Diablerets massif. I descended north of Martigny and then made my up towards the Swiss-French border before heading towards the Chamonix valley, traverse around the Mont Blanc massif and finally begin to head south towards the sea. I entered Italy in the Mont Blanc region and gained and traveresed along the snow-covered peaks in Valle d’Aosta. Since I was a bit ahead of schedule I let my instinct guide me, following the maps and the advice of those I met along the way as I set off in search of the most beautiful and interesting places. This resulted in numerous days in France, walking in the Vanoise, Ecrins and Queras National Parks. From there I traversed across back into Italy's splendid Valle Maira and Upper Valle Stura, then back into France's Tineè valley and then back into Italy once again, through the entire Argentera National Park. From here I made my way directly south through the Mercantour National Park to reach the end destination, on precisely the 80th day, just as I had set out to do: the Principality of Monaco.

After the Eastern Alps you traversed across the Central and Western Alps. What differences did you notice?
When talking about differences in nature, one has to take into account the underlying geology. The composition of the rocks determines the territory's morphology, as well as the types of vegetation and therefore the environment, even if in limestone areas one can often come across islands of granite and vice versa. Perhaps what struck me most is the relationship man has with the mountains. In Slovenia I saw man struggling to carve out his plot of land in order to cultivate and obtain what he needs from nature. In Austria I saw man making the most of nature as a better balance has already been reached. In the South Tyrol things have been taken a stage further and this balance and exploitation of nature for agricultural needs has also taken on a different value, has transformed into a “selling point” for tourism. In Switzerland, around the Mont Blanc massif as well as in some other areas, nature and the mountains are undermined and “used” for pleasure and exploitation as man has transformed it all into a great big playground. In France, where the mountains are less lived on a daily basis, I saw lots of trekking, plenty of campsites and a “softer” approach to living in, and enjoying, nature.

So how did it feel when you finally saw Montecarlo?
I only caught sight of Montecarlo about an hour before the end of the walk. I'd seen the sea clearly only once beforehand, the previous day while descending from Col de Turini. It was really exciting, I was overcome by joy, satisfaction, gratification. Right from the start I'd always imagined this moment, reaching the sea, and I continued to repeat to myself “Ivan, what on earth did you manage to do!” Unfortunately I didn't spend much time there, I was in a rush as I had a meeting at Monaco with a delegation of the Monaco Alpine Club to celebrate the end of my traverse; I signed the Via Alpina book, had official photos taken and was interviewed by the local press.

After 80 days in the Alps, alone, what changed within you?
Physically I lost 5 or 6 kilos, I grew a long, thick beard that gives me a fairly wild look, like someone who's seen a lot in his lifetime. Within me, the most obvious change is that I've become aware of what I'm capable of. Perhaps this is the most beautiful gift the entire journey has given me. Another thing I noted was how this experience has made me reconsider lots of aspects of life in general. An experience like this one forces you to think about values and priorities: all of a sudden the small things in life become more important, while all those which are superfluous, superficial and form great part of our everyday lives, lose importance.

Your were often accompanied by solitude along this trip. How would you define solitude?
Solitude is one of man's dimensions, but in modern society it's not easy to find moments when you can spend some time alone, and in general this is often viewed as being something that is best avoided. In this era of social networks solitude seems more like a form of punishment or a form of inadequacy towards someone or something, and so one becomes marginalized and enters a state of solitude. For me though, solitude was a great opportunity to test myself, to find out more about what I'm capable of and what I'm not.

You walked for many days in close contact with nature, what did you learn?
The most beautiful thing I discovered throughout this constant contact with nature is how, after having walked for a few days, my relationship with the surrounding environment transformed. I was no longer simply an external observer, but I felt a part of it. I learnt to be more humble in asking for and accepting help when I needed it, and also when I didn't need it. I learnt to trust my instinct, that rarely failed me, but also how to be prudent, because one always needs to keep alert and concentrated with such a big objective, where even the slightest mistake can cost dearly.

Walking is a powerful metaphor. Is there anything else you feel you can add?
More than adding anything, I'd like to concentrate on the meaning of walking. Walking is Man's true nature, the true dimension of humankind that has evolved, anthropologically speaking, becoming upright to observe the surroundings: food, prey, predators. Walking enabled man to evolve further, allowing the skull to become bigger and for man to become knowledgable. Unfortunately in modern society the act of walking, traveling slowly, is gradually being lost altogether. We're currently experiencing new dimensions, dictated by cars and new technologies, increasingly quick, and this is completely distorting the space-time dimension we once knew. Of course there are many positive aspects but, in my opinion, they can also pose real limits Exasperation always results in something negative. We need to regain our time, to walk, to enjoy the simple things in life, savour them at the right speed and the right moment, alone or with others, in nature on in places inhabited by man, to find oneself and meet others.

In the previous interview we asked you to tell us about the gear you used. Now that you've finished the journey, is there anything you want to suggest?
My advice is to take all the time you need to carefully consider what you really need for the walk and then take just as much time to understand if what you've chosen is really necessary. From a technical point of view, the right walking boots are fundamental, they're the most important element seeing that they “transport” you day in, day out. The shoes must be comfortable, tough, suitable for carrying great loads and above all they have to feel trustworthy and safe during every step you take.

Tell us about some unforgettable moments
There are lots of unforgettable encounters. Hut wardens were often the most interesting: great people, just like I've always thought. Apart from them, I can mention two other moments.
The first was a group of pilgrims (about twenty) who had ascended the day before to the Hochweisseinhutte hut in Austria. They planned to join lots of others the next morning who'd set off at dawn from Forni Avoltri to make the pilgrimage up to the shrine of Maria Luggau in Carinthia. They told me this tradition has been going on more than four centuries and includes a choir and village band, as they're twinned with their Austrian neighbors who host them that night after the festivities after which they return then return to the refuge. It was a truly unforgettable evening, in great company. We talked about everything, from the first violin in Mozart's orchestra (he too born in Forni Avoltri), to ancient religious stories, while singing and drinking the night away. Stupendous!
The other truly memorable encounter was with an elephant at 2500 meters. Having left the Maira Valley I headed towards the upper Stura Valley, close to the French border. Immediately after having crosses the Cavalla pass I saw a group of people in the distance and huge shape that couldn't identify properly. When I got a little closer – I was on the opposite side of the valley – I realised it was an elephant. An elephant statue, with wheels attached to its legs tugged by the group of people. They had set off five days earlier from Larche in France and were heading to Chiappera in Val Maira with a statue that weighed 340 kg, the work of a local artist, to celebrate Hannibal's crossing of the Alps of, as apparently he had chosen this pass. What can I say? How many people can say they've seen an elephant in the Alps? So I turned around and went to help the group pull the beast for a few hundred meters and take part in this eccentric act. Truly fantastic, it's something I certainly won't forget!

Is there anywhere you'd have liked to remain forever?
I saw lots of amazing places. First and foremost the Roburent lakes, above Argentera in Valle Stura, they're simply wonderful. But to live somewhere you need a village, some house at least, so I suppose I should mention a hamlet where time seems to have stopped, it's tranquil, has a couple of places where tourists can stay, walkers should I say, housed in old buildings, where nothing has been ruined. It's called Maljasset and is surrounded by wild mountains and beautiful lakes in France's Queyras National Park, close to Aiguille de Chambeyron.

Many followed your progress on facebook. What do you think about this new way of recounting a journey?
I have to admit it's a great and powerful means of communication. It was great to feel the warmth of all those who followed my progress, who cheered me on, urged me to write and update my pages so that they could follow my journey and join in on my adventure. The negative aspect though, I must confess, is that at times I noticed a somewhat frivolous use of this technology, where appearances were more important than anything else. My updates were usually viewed by roughtly the same number of people, but whenever the first photo I chose seemed particularly curious, then there were significantly more page views.

Tell us about your Slovenian walking stick...
It all began on day 3. The day beforehand I decided to get rid of the trekking sticks I'd stowed away in my ruckasck, as well as my low-cut shoes, to lighten my load as much as possible. I'd realised that the weight of my rucksack could be a problem and my ankle and hip were beginning to play up. I decided to use simple sticks, wherever I needed and found them, and the advantage was that I could cut them to just my size (I noticed another positive aspect: they didn't give me blisters and if I wanted to I could switch the ends I held). As time went on they became part of my journey; much to my dismay I had to substitute two since I broke them but the third, the thinnest and lightest, came with me all the way to Montecarlo. Despite breaking it twice (two “slight fractures” as I jokingly told those I met), I decided not to throw it away and instead fix it with some tape. I couldn't simply abandon it after it had supported me for so long.

Were there any difficult moments?
On the 49th day. It had been raining and storming for days in the Valais area and I was a bit demoralised for not having even caught a glimpse of the splendid views onto the 4000m summits of the Imperial Crown, the reason why I'd decided to extend my route for a few days. The day beforehand, towards evening, the weather finally seemed to improve, the clouds lifted showing some hints of blue sky. Despite the difficult days I'd just had up in the mountains, always above 2500m and in a fairly wild area between Mount Wildhorn and Les Diablerets, I decided to not stop in the hut close by since the weather looked like it would get better and instead I camped a bit lower down, in a beautiful place below Grand Muveran. I washed in a stream, washed my clothes a bit, ate something and then went to sleep. Even before dawn broke I heard the insistent drops of rain yet again and so I set off with wet gear, in and outside my rucksack. What lay in store was a long day in the rain, with wind and fog and, if that wasn't enough, I had to descend for 2000m, to an altitude of 300 – 400m to traverse the Rodano valley close to Martigny. The descent was steep and dangerous, very slippery and in the middle of a forest with rocks and stones covered in moss. I slipped a number of times and despite being extremely cautious, I hurt my elbow and ripped my jacket, while I hurt my hip in another fall. I was really down in the dumps and seriously began to think that after 50 days, during which I'd been dry for only 5 or perhaps 6 days, that this wasn't the right summer for my undertaking, and that my doctor hadn't ordered me to do it and finish it and so, instead, I could just as easily pack up and go home. Shortly afterwards a ray of sun made all bad thoughts disappear.

INTERVIEW - PART 1


"Across the Alps" is a story written for GOOD FOR ALPS
Magazine of AKU trekking & outdoor footwear
24/07/2014 - Ivan Peri Across the Alps: an 80 day dream
09/07/2014 - Walking, a long journey of discovery
12/06/2014 - Farmers -The mountains are not an amusement park
16/04/2014 - Repairers of the fragile mountain environment 
27/03/2014 - Shepherds and Alpine guides. Worlds apart?