Melloblocco 2023: the beauty and essence of bouldering, together

Six months ago today the organisers took the final decision: after a four-year hiatus, the time had finally come for another Melloblocco. Much has changed since the last edition in 2018 and these times have been tumultuous to say the least. The pandemic. The economy. The war. The world has changed and so have we. Hedging bets on another successful Melloblocco wasn’t easy. But the decision was made to go ahead nevertheless. And these last four days in Val Masino and Val di Mello have proven the organisers right.

Melloblocco 2023 will be remembered as a success. As an edition where, once again, thousands of climbers flocked to one of the most beautiful valleys in the Alps for the most diverse reasons. To go bouldering. To see friends. To see something they'd heard so much of but had never seen before, or to marvel once again at the valley's lush green meadows, deep blue skies and white snow-capped mountains. At its towering granite walls that jettison down to its fast-moving, crystal-clear waters, and its thousands of pristine granite boulders. To then eat delicious pizzocheri and exquisite taròz, sip coffee and drink a beer or two, just hang out, talk about everything from chief world systems to skin, conditions and morpho moves. In short, be a part of this great climbing community which, in truth, in something far more: it's a big family. And in many respects, Val di Mello and Val Masino are their family home.

The formula this year was a return to the meeting's roots. The idea was to rediscover some of the best areas used in past editions that had become overgrown and needed maintenance. To not necessarily "consume" new terrain, but instead slow things down. Go back a step and showcase those blocks unearthed by Simone Pedeferri many moons ago and restore them to their former glory. And so as soon as the snow left the valley the team, comprised of Matteo De Zaiacomo, Andrea Pavan, Marco Bufalo, Maximiliano Piazza and the Valmasino Climbing team spearheaded by Niccolò Bartoli, did an absolutely amazing job at brushing and cleaning the blocs and, in general, preparing the areas. These last four days of brilliant early-May sunshine did the rest as the climbers, like bees at their hive, swarmed throughout the valley in search of their personal ambrosia.

Some of the world's best climbers were here and some of their ascents really were noteworthy. Giulia Medici for example impressed everyone by sending 7 of the 8 boulders, a staggering 6 of which on the first day including the ultra-classic Tarzan sit which she repeated with terrific power and precision. And both Silvio Reffo and Stefano Carnati absolutely crushed it, displaying an astounding ability to quickly switch to 4 meter boulder-mode after having mastered 40 meter routes; the former recently climbed 9a+, the latter 9b. Climbing well into the night, Reffo sent 5 problems, Carnati 6. They, and all the others who sent the "comp" problems, received a thunderous applause on Sunday afternoon from all those who gathered for the award's ceremony and nigh-limitless lottery.

And so the curtain falls on Melloblocco, once again the world's biggest bouldering and climbing meeting, by a long long way. The numbers speak for themselves: over 2400 climbers officially registered, to which one must also add all those who pilgrimed into the valley just to take part in the event. The atmosphere, from early on Thursday to late on Sunday, was one of total relax and the while the valley welcomed everyone with open arms, the climbers responded by demonstrating utmost respect and love for this pristine habitat. While bouldering is the essence of moving over rock, Melloblocco is the quintessence of what climbing is actually all about: having fun, together.

WOMEN
Devil and dust: Roberta Longo, Giulia Medici, Bára Pospíšilová, Federica Califano, Katerina Zimova, Alessia Gatti, Siara Fabbri, Caterina Bassi
Shiba: Bára Pospíšilová, Giulia Medici, Caterina Bassi
Billy Idol: Roberta Longo, Giulia Medici, Bára Pospíšilová, Siara Fabbri
Pinnajet: Giulia Medici
Sindrome da nomination: Giulia Medici
Tarzan sit: Giulia Medici
Jesus Christ Superstar: Giulia Medici
Superparanoid android: Not climbed

MEN
Sugar buba: Leonardo Colombo, Stefano Carnati, Luca Strepparava, Stefano Parzani, Stefano Motta, Stefano Togninalli, Silvio Reffo, Claudio Arrigoni, Davide Bassotto, Pietro Giorello, Simone Tentori
Sangue freddo: Stefano Carnati, Silvio Reffo, Davide Bassotto, Claudio Arigoni
Darth Vader: Stefano Carnati, Silvio Reffo, Davide Bassotto
Super Paranoid Android: Giovanni Placci, Stefano Carnati, Leonardo Colombo, Silvio Reffo, Claudio Arrigoni, Davide Bassotto, Simone Tentori
La M: Stefano Carnati, Silvio Reffo
Progetto Merisio: Stefano Carnati
Antropos: Not climbed
Megalodonte: Not climbed

Guest stars: Dott. Kelios Bonetti, Dave Graham, Alessandro Larcher, Jacopo Larcher, Paolo Marazzi, Paolo Masa, Jacopo Merizzi, Luca Schiera, Barbara Zangerl
Photographers: Klaus Dell'Orto, Claudio Piscina
Speakers: Marco Ballerini, Matteo De Zaiacomo

THANKS
Thanks to the companies that supported the event: CAMP, La Sportiva, Petzl, Grivel, Rupe
Thanks to the Tourist Office of Val Masino and to the President Sara Fiorelli, to the Val Masino Town Council and to the Mayor Pietro Taeggi and to all the Melloblocco staff, from the welcome to the planners. Thanks to the forces of the order, prefecture, police headquarters, carabinieri, local police and firefighters, civil protection, red cross and mountain rescue, who ensured the success of the event. And finally, a huge thank you to all those who took part in Melloblocco to make these 4 days a memorable event!

MELLOBLOCCO - VAL MASINO - VAL DI MELLO
Melloblocco n° 16 è dal 4 a 7 maggio 2023
Info: www.melloblocco.it