Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković

Ivica Matković and I established our first big route in the Paklenica canyon in 1998, Sedmi kontinent, Seventh Continent, (7b+) on Debeli Kuk. This marked the start of our long relationship with Paklenica; the Seventh Continent is a place where children of all races live, where there are no adults, where there are no wars ...

We continued on Anića kuk, first paying tribute to the most popular resident of Starigrad with Nema Dinka do Dinka, No one like Dinko (7b). In 1999 we experienced our golden days and created Vila Velebita (7b+), which glorifies our most famous mountain, and Zlatne godine, Golden Years (7c). In 2004 we were at the peak of our powers and added Zenit (7b).

Of corse we have climbed on other mountains and walls across the globe but for us Paklenica and Anića Kuk was, and still are, the places we love most. Somewhat later, with our route Ultimate fight (7b), we indicated towards the end of our "battle" with Anića kuk.

But it wasn't to be, because eight years ago, on my fiftieth birthday, we climbed 50 and life to go (6c+), proving that we still had some energy left. And now we have closed the circle with a route named Besmrtnici, Immortals, which in many ways celebrates my 40 years of constant dedication to climbing. 

We equipped the route in ground-up style over three days. It has ten pitches and is not harder than 6c, taking a line mainly to the left of the Mosoraški route. The final part is awesome, while almost every section contains beautiful details and moves.

Our aim was to establish a route that could be popular for most visitors, hence the bolting is good. Many of those who have already repeated it during the last two months have told us it might become a future modern classic. Our first ascent was filmed by legendary Stipe Božić and his daughter Iva. The only problem now is that when I turn 60 in two years time, we will need to find another good line…

by Boris Čujić

TOPO: climbing at Paklenica, Croatia

Link: www.paklenica-croatia.com/croatia-climbing-guide