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Luca Rinaldi boulders 8B at Cresciano and Varazze

At Cresciano in Switzerland Italy’s Luca Rinaldi repeated The Proue while at Varazze he sent Gioia and Alphacentauri. All three boulder problems are graded 8B.

Planetmountain

March 2017

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Luca Rinaldi sending Gioia 8B a Varazze

archivio Luca Rinaldi

Off the Wagon, the 8B+ boulder problem in Valle Bavona, Switzerland, in January 2016. And now, right as the temperatures rise and the winter season in Cresciano is coming to an end, Luca Rinaldi has tucked in a quick repeat of La Proue, an 8B problem comprised of just three rock-solid moves. Making the most of his form, Rinaldi travelled to Varazze where he made short work of another two 8B’s, Alphacentauri and Gioia stand.

Talking to planetmountain.com about Gioia stand, the climber from Valchiusella stated “I'd tried it 2 years ago, falling off the 7C finish. I went back again at New Year but temperatures were far too high, and after attempting it for 15 minutes I gave up. On 25 February I returned and after a short warm-up to check the moves, I sent Gioia stand on my second attempt that day, before noon."

Not content, a few hours later he sent another 8B, Alphacentauri. “It’s another problem given 8B" explains Rinaldi. "After a quick session on the moves on the lower section and a cigarette down by the river to dry my skin and enjoy the beautiful breeze, I got Alphacentauri second go. I reckon both are fairly soft 8B’s, especially when compared to La Proue at Cresciano (very hard and delicate) and Crack line in Chironico."

Bearing in mind the speed of these ascents, what about the "full version" of Gioia, starting from the far left as Cristian Core did in 2008 to create the world’s first 8C+ boulder problem? "For the full version I have no hope, not in my climbing life" explained Rinaldi "having said that, during that "no gravity" day I managed to hold the two tiny crimps in the middle and start the move that leads into the second section, a really tough mini- compression really tough! But perhaps with a kneepad I’ve got a chance."

TOPO: Varazze

TOPO: Cresciano

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04/02/2016 - Luca Rinaldi boulders 8B+ with Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona
Italian climber Luca Rinaldi has repeated Off the Wagon, the boulder problem graded 8B+ located in Valle Bavona, Switzerland.