Hirayama and Florine set new Nose record

In just 2.48.55 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine set new Nose record in Yosemite

October 2002

Time flies when you’re having fun! Yuji Hirayama, fresh from his lightening ascent of Salathe, has set a new speed record of the Nose together with local expert Hans Florine. The two raced to the top in a staggering 2 hours, 48 minutes, and 55 seconds, slashing time off Dean Potter and Timmy O’Neill’s 3:24:20 record established in 2001.

Starting at 7.15 am on 29 September the two simul-climbed for most of the route, at times free, at times using aid, and restocking gear only 5 times during the ascent. As Yuji led the pitches Hans followed, ensuring that the two moved as swiftly as possible to top out at 10:03am.

Hans is well known for his fast Valley climbs and this is his 46th ascent of the Nose. Experience counts for a lot during these ascents and, as he puts it, “more confidence, building on each other’s accomplishments, better gear, less gear and less weight” are the reason why times continue to get faster. We’ll have to wait and see if this new record can be broken, in the meantime though let's reflect on Hans’ final comment: “BOY IT WAS FUN! And rewarding!.” Congratulations.

Further info
> Hans Florine Speedclimb
> Hirayama sets new SalathÃ© record

Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama
photo Florine collection

The Nose
FA: W. Harding, W. Merry, G. Whitmore - 1958
Length: 870 m (31 pitches)
Grade.: 5.13c or 5.9 A2
FFA: Lynn Hill '93