Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali
This short story stemmed from this, from an idea, from a vision that slowly but surely became concrete, after our habitual perspective was unexpectedly unshackled. "What d'you reckon Stefano, if we set off from that slab, perhaps we could..." "Yes, Daniele, and then we'll continue on left up that crack... then along the pillar and..." And so while we were repeating the Pegurri-Carrara route, our eyes drifted across, the perspective was just right and this is how the new route came into being.
A few days later we climbed one pitch after the next to forge Dall’alba al tramonto in a single day. From dawn to dusk is psychologically demanding, protected with just a few in-situ bolts, up a series of incredibly weathered and pocketed slabs and cracks that can be protected with an astute use of natural pro, if you know how to place them at just the right angle...
We repeated Dall’alba al tramonto on 31 August; the route is protected by 8mm stainless steel bolts and is equipped with abseil rings.
Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support, Karpos and Wild Climb.
TOPO: Dall’alba al tramonto, Presolana