Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland

Stop Sika at Rawyl in Switzerland was bolted by Bertrand Martenet in 2002 and first ascended as an 8c by Didier Berthod in 2003. The completely natural line – hence the name – became an instant classic. After a few repeats the grade settled at 8b+. In 2019 Bertrand rebolted the route. Instead of following the original right-left-loop in the route's middle section, he established a new, bouldery direct line. That same year Samuel Ometz became the first to free this new version. The number of repeats dropped significantly. Now the consensus is back to 8c.

That route has always been my dream. The line looks so good. Undoubtedly, the technical difficulties and small edges are demanding. To be honest, it was the high grading that scared me. Well, to my generation, 8c still sounds like a trip to Mars! I was 20 years old when this level was considered the highest at the time. I’ve been climbing for four decades now, with the full program of good and bad days, surprises, obstacles and injuries. However, I never stopped, never gave up. Never felt burned out from climbing. For me, climbing is still a source of energy, inspiration and joy. And yet 8c marks a mental barrier. The last route I was able to climb at this level was six years ago. And I was 48 years old then.

My strength in projecting is definitely my stubbornness and my unshakable optimism. Not my power. If the time is right and the route perfect, I can dedicate all my energy to it. Thankfully, my energy level went up when I became vegan seven years ago. With increasing energy and climbing experience, I dared to try routes at my personal limit abroad. Before that, most of my hardest climbs were at the home crags. A non-climbing related injury in 2017 prevented me from doing hard moves for a year. But I came back and said to myself that it’s better to fail on a dream route than to regret too late to have never really tried. That's why I plucked up all my courage and hopped on Stop Sika last fall.

In the beginning, the two crux sequences showed me my weakness and stiffness. Still, I was always happy to try this route. To regain experience and confidence I also ventured on other 8c’s. Most notably, I tried Mind Control at Oliana that could be Stop Sika’s sibling. The wonderful Vanda Michalkova created a training regime that specifically addressed my weaknesses. For several months I lived the life of a climbing monk and spent most of my free time training. A spray wall in the private setting of a club became my second home. Then I went on a three-week climbing road trip to transfer the skills I had trained indoors to the rock. It was all about embracing the entire transformation process. Sure, all the effort has to be squeezed into everyday life. I work 4 days a week with 5 weeks vacation a year. And besides, I don't have a sponsor. Anyways, I came back to the route stronger. It’s possible in older age!

After a very hot summer, temperatures finally dropped in September. Maybe too deep, and unexpectedly fast! The send came at the best moment, considering the fact that the route is located in an alpine environment. On Friday, 16 September, after a perfect go, I was able to clip the chain! I kept my focus, climbed without hesitation or doubts. The next day snow fell all the way down to the base of the crag … I 'd managed the send just in time, also becuase my body was feeling increasingly drained and tired from the physical demands of the route after five consecutive weekends of tough send burns!

As far as I know, there are not many climbers in their mid-fifties who have sent a route of this level. I can well imagine that we will see this happening more often in the next 10 or 20 years. Mainly due to today's increasing awareness of a good lifestyle and more knowledge about training in old age. I’ve stumbled across many reports of taking T-level supplementals to keep performance high as we age. This should be discussed more widely. I have never taken anything like that, because it is obviously bad, if not dangerous, for the body. There is a natural way to increase T-levels, not just by stopping and sitting down ‘because you’re too old’, but by not stopping moving. That’s what I do. I still have dreams and I won’t stop climbing.

I've had incredible support throughout this entire process, both in terms of encouragement and belays! Without these I would have got nowhere. Thanks to everyone who helped me along the way!

Chris Frick 23/02/1968
1982 – Started climbing (self taught, I survived)
1986 – Touch and Go, Danube Valley, Germany, first 7a
1987 – THC, Basler Jura, Switzerland, first 7b
1988 – Zuvielisation, Basler Jura, Switzerland, first 7c
1989 – J'irai cracher sur vos tombes, Buoux, France, first 7c+
1989 – Schmunzelmonster, Basler Jura, Switzerland, first 8a+ (today considered 8b)
1990 – La nuit de lézard, Buoux, France, first 8a+ abroad
1990 – Spit verdonesque édente, Eiger, Switzerland, 7a+/A1
1991 – La belle vie, Basler Jura, Switzerland, first 8b
1992 – L'amour egocentrique, Basler Jura, Switzerland, first 8b+
1994 – Weg durch den Fisch, Marmolada, Italy, 7b complete redpoint lead
1996 – L'amour directe, Basler Jura, Switzerland, first 8b+ FA
1997 – Apocalipsticks, Basler Jura, Switzerland, 8b+ FA
2001 – Hitchhike the plane, Frankenjura, 7c+ os
2002 – Ravage, Basler Jura, Switzerland, first 8b+/c
2002 – Zeichen der Verwüstung, Basler Jura, Switzerland, first 8c
2014 – Punto Caramelo, Kalymnos, Greece, 8a flash
2015 – Enfant de Bohême, Basler Jura, Switzerland, 8c
2016 – Goldfinger, Gimmelwald, Switzerland 8c
2020 – Humildes pa casa, Oliana, Spain, 8b+
2020 – Meron, Eiger-Rotstock, Switzerland, 7c+ FA
2022 – Stop Sika, Rawyl, Switzerland, 8c

In total Frick has climbed close to 400 routes between 8a to 8c. Furthermore, he has bolted over 400 sport climbs, many of which in the 8a to 8b+ range, and rebolted around 400 routes. He is the author of the current topo guidebook to the Basler Jura, and a member of the IG Climbing Basler Jura board.