Bouldering at Ussel in Valle d'Aosta, Italy
In summer 2013 I decided the time had come to check it out and discover the area's potential. I realised immediately that the original, historical problems needed cleaning but I didn't think I'd unearth anything new. That summer I spent every day wandering through the forest, until my attention was caught by an 8m high boulder. Its steep, overhanging prow seemed climbable and as I began to clean it holds literally appeared from below the moss. That's how "Amélie" (7B+) saw the light of day, simply fantastic! A series of slopers and precise heel and toe hooks lead to the top of the arete, a difficult mantle and then the final 3 easy metres.
Thanks to this problem I realised that I have to look at the entire area from a different perspective and, armed with a ladder and brush, I began to clean the moss-covered rock and quickly put up a series of new problems, from easy 4A to difficult 7C+. "Revelation" seemed unclimbable at first: to the left of "Rosa Canina" a thin tufa seemed impossible to hold but in the end a foothold appeared thanks to some brushing and the moves became possible at 7C. I also got to work on an old project dating back to the 80's, a boulder located at the top of the hill with a 6C stand start. The sit start had resisted all attempts, probably due to a broken hold, but in the end I finally worked out the beta and sent "Butterfly effect" (7C+). This resulted in a strained muscle, but it's currently the hardest problem at Ussel.
Instead of 40 problems, Ussel now boasts 60 with difficulties ranging from 4A all the way to 7C+. There's still plenty of potential for more and while it's likely that I'll return in the future, at present I'm concentrating on establishing a new area in the lower part of the Aosta Valley...
by Marco Nardi
TOPO: Ussel, Valle d'Aosta, Italy