1 / 39
Siurana, Spain
Sturman - Casalino collection
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a - 8c
Height
300m
Routes number
200
Rock type
Granite
Orientation
N, S, E, W
Rope
60m rope.
Imagine a beautiful green narrow valley with pasturing cows and snow-capped peaks. A stream gushes happily through it, and a small road winds upwards, past the occasional farm, through the odd hamlet. Now imagine that littered within this valley there are dozens of granite boulders of all shapes and sizes. Some are gigantic, while others are tiny, dwarfed by the dark cliffs high up above. If you look carefully you’ll notice those telltale white chalk marks, and even closer inspection reveals that there are literally hundreds of sports routes to choose from. Delicate quartz slabs, deep granite cracks, steep crimpy overhangs… a dream come true? Well, stop imagining and welcome to the Zillertal, Austria’s granite eldorado!The Zillertal has long been the breeding ground for some of Austria’s foremost climbers, with the likes of Gerhard Hörhager and Markus Schwaiger setting standards and pushing them ever upwards over the last 20 years. But this valley is by no means resereved exclusively for the best: there are over hundreds routes to chose from, of which the majority are mid-grades. And if you want a rest from the single pitch sports climbing, consider some of the multi-pitches which loom above, or the massive bouldering opportunities dotted throught the in the valley and the nearby Zillergrund.One of the main crags in the Zillertal is without a doubt the Ewige Jagdgründe, a collection of 7 massive boulders with some of the best and most varied climbing in the area. We recommend you head here first, then discover the other crags.
Access
The Zillertal is located 70 km SE of Innsbruck. Take the A12 motorway east, exit at Wiesing then travel S along the B169 to Mayrhofen. After Mayrhofen turn left off the main road, keeping on the B169 to Ginzling. Continue through this small village on up to the Ewige Jagdgründe - the enormous free standing boulders on the left. Park next to theboulders, circa 500m before reaching Gasthaus Breitlahner and the toll road. Logistics
Camping Mayrhofenwww.tiscover.at/camping-mayrhofen Period
Spring, autumn. Climb
All types of granite climbing: cracks, slopers, slabs, steep crimpy overhangs.Please note: the boulders on the opposite side of the stream (Wig, Wam and Mocassin) are officialy closed to climbing. For up-to-date information check out www.stonemonkeys.com Notes
Bibliography
Zillertal, Klettern & Bouldern - Markus Schwaiger
The Zillertal is located 70 km SE of Innsbruck. Take the A12 motorway east, exit at Wiesing then travel S along the B169 to Mayrhofen. After Mayrhofen turn left off the main road, keeping on the B169 to Ginzling. Continue through this small village on up to the Ewige Jagdgründe - the enormous free standing boulders on the left. Park next to theboulders, circa 500m before reaching Gasthaus Breitlahner and the toll road. Logistics
Camping Mayrhofenwww.tiscover.at/camping-mayrhofen Period
Spring, autumn. Climb
All types of granite climbing: cracks, slopers, slabs, steep crimpy overhangs.Please note: the boulders on the opposite side of the stream (Wig, Wam and Mocassin) are officialy closed to climbing. For up-to-date information check out www.stonemonkeys.com Notes
News Zillertal | |
www.stonemonkeys.com |
Zillertal, Klettern & Bouldern - Markus Schwaiger
Sectors
Einhorn
Beautiful crag. 17 well-equipped slab routes from 3c - 6c. Great for beginners. Access: follow the small road from the gravel opening (30 m in front of the fountain) into the woods and down past hairpin bends leftwards beneath the walls to the crag (10 mi
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Muttertag | 8m | 7b+/7c | |
2 | Graceland | 12m | 8b | |
3 | Das Letzte Einhorn | 10m | 6b | |
4 | Weg Durch das Puff | 10m | 5b | |
5 | Sesamstraße | 10m | 4b |
Wächter
Beautiful crag. 17 well-equipped slab routes from 3c - 6c. Great for beginners. Access: follow the small road from the gravel opening (30 m in front of the fountain) into the woods and down past hairpin bends leftwards beneath the walls to the crag (10 mi
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Walter One | 10m | 4b | |
2 | Walter Two | 10m | 5a | |
3 | Walter Three | 12m | 5b | |
4 | Equilibrio | 15m | 6a | |
5 | Parablue | 20m | 7b | |
6 | Hounts Of Love | 20m | 8a | |
7 | Dolphins Cry | 20m | 7c | |
7 | Silmarillion | 20m | 8b | |
8 | Jumping Jack Flash | 20m | 7c+ | |
8 | Die Kurze | 12m | 6a | |
8 | Roadrunner | 20m | 7b | |
9 | Rutschpartie | 20m | 6c+ | |
10 | Tettino | 18m | 6a | |
11 | Weisse Wolke | 15m | 3c |
Haüptling
Beautiful crag. 17 well-equipped slab routes from 3c - 6c. Great for beginners. Access: follow the small road from the gravel opening (30 m in front of the fountain) into the woods and down past hairpin bends leftwards beneath the walls to the crag (10 mi
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Stone cold Sober | 15m | 7a+ | |
2 | Ego nein Danke | 30m | 6c/c+ | |
3 | Especially for you | 18m | 7b+ | |
4 | 08/15 | 35 m | 5b | |
5 | Snooker | 27m | 8a | |
6 | Sechsplosion | 27m | 6b | |
7 | Monsieur Fauxpas | 25m | 7c+ | |
8 | Rippentrip | 25m | 7a | |
9 | Sannyas | 20m | 7a+ | |
10 | Careheart | 18m | 7b | |
11 | Science Fiction | 15m | 7b | |
12 | Griff Quiz | 15m | 6c | |
13 | Verschneidungsmagie | 12m | 6b | |
14 | Jack the Ripper | 10m | 8a | |
15 | Zyklon der Nerven | 12m | 6c | |
16 | Geronimo | 15m | 7c+ | |
17 | Zyankali | 30m | 7c | |
18 | Meister Propper | 30m | 7a+ | |
19 | Mister Loctite | 30m | 7b | |
20 | Hallo Hermann | 30m | 7a | |
21 | Projekt | |||
22 | Little Crow | 25m | 8a+ | |
23 | Mission Impossibile | 25m | 8a+ | |
24 | Sitting Bull | 30m | 7c | |
25 | Schwänzeltanz | 17m | 6b+ | |
26 | Wolle Bolle | 17m | 7b+ | |
27 | Disneyland | 17m | 5c | |
28 | Indianerdachl | 20m | 6c | |
29 | Jerokée | 15m | 7c+/8a | |
30 | Illiliwa | 15m | 7c+/8a | |
31 | Tomahawk | 15m | 5a | |
32 | Irokese | 15m | 5c | |
33 | Schneggla & Sweety | 17m | 7a+ |
Wig & Wam
Beautiful crag. 17 well-equipped slab routes from 3c - 6c. Great for beginners. Access: follow the small road from the gravel opening (30 m in front of the fountain) into the woods and down past hairpin bends leftwards beneath the walls to the crag (10 mi
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Picabo | 10m | 7c | |
2 | El Schuppo | 15m | 6c | |
3 | Maracuja | 17m | 6c+/7a | |
4 | Santana | 22m | 6c+/7a | |
5 | Indy | 35m | 7a+ | |
6 | Maniray | 25m | 8b/b+ | |
7 | Sagaro | 22m | 8a+/b | |
7 | Mit Nasenbluten Haientgegenschwimmer | 27m | 7c+ | |
7 | Sagaro | 22m | 8a+/b | |
8 | Little Feat | 18m | 7c | |
9 | Secret Language of Birds | 27m | 7b+ | |
9 | Little Bigman | 18m | 6c | |
10 | Natascha | 18m | 7c | |
11 | Black Night | 27m | 6c+/7a | |
12 | Schräger Edi | 25m | 8a | |
13 | Manitou | 25m | 7b+/c | |
13 | Manitoutwo | 25m | 7c+ | |
14 | Reise nach Ixtlan | 25m | 7c+/8a | |
15 | Alarm | 25m | 7c+/8a | |
16 | Aranacruz | 18m | 7b+ | |
17 | ? | 18m | 6c | |
18 | Mein Gott Walter (lang) | 25m | 7b+ | |
18 | Mein Gott Walter | 15m | 6b+ | |
19 | Salamandertrick | 25m | 8a+ | |
20 | Sooner or Later | 25m | 8a | |
21 | Jump the Gun | 23m | 7a+ | |
22 | Dixi Chicken | 17m | 7a+ | |
23 | Juju | 20m | 7b | |
24 | Gecko | 18m | 8b | |
25 | Moby Dick | 12m | 6c+ | |
26 | Ohne Worte | 18m | 5c | |
27 | Hot mokassin | 30m | 6c | |
28 | Licht ins Dunkel | 30m | 6b+ | |
29 | High River | 22m | 7b+ | |
30 | Chaos | 22m | 7c | |
31 | Supermumpfer | 18m | 6c | |
32 | Der Kleine Pfeil | 15m | 6a | |
33 | Hoachwetter | 15m | 7c+/8a | |
34 | Kresznez Hiaglgwimpft | 17m | 5b | |
35 | Hermanns Alptraum | 25m | 5c | |
36 | Visa Lisa | 25m | 5b |
Tipy
Beautiful crag. 17 well-equipped slab routes from 3c - 6c. Great for beginners. Access: follow the small road from the gravel opening (30 m in front of the fountain) into the woods and down past hairpin bends leftwards beneath the walls to the crag (10 mi
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bachstelze | 10m | 7a+ | |
2 | Burning Feats | 10m | 7a/7a+ | |
3 | Step by Step | 10m | 8a | |
4 | Schräga Vogel | 10m | 6c+ | |
5 | Ölapalöma Westwand | 10m | 6b | |
6 | Mumbo No. 5 | 8m | 6a+ |
Comments
No comments yet...
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a - 8c
Height
300m
Routes number
200
Rock type
Granite
Orientation
N, S, E, W
Rope
60m rope.
Crags in the same region