The Madonna di Campiglio Mountain Guides were guests in Mattinata thanks to Michael Granatiero, president of the local tourist association and owner of the Hotel Torre del Porto,and by Marco di Bari, a friend of Madonna di Campiglio Guide and president of the ASD Gargano Woodcraft.
After carefully examining the area the guides identified a crag, circa 100 meters wide and 50 high, lcoated in the area known as Ripe Rosse close to Mattinata. Situated within the Gargano natural Park and with a splendid view onto the sea, this crag faces NW and offers solid, compact limestone. Traces of one previous route were found and after some thorough cleaning 16 routes were bolted and climbed.
In addition to this crag, we also noted the potential for other crags, all with excellent access . Although there is not a huge quantity of rock in this area of the Gargano, the quality of the limestone is superb. We also noted, unfortunately, that at Ripe Rosse a 200m face of superb limestone has been, inexplicably, covered with wire-mesh protection nets.
Apart from the actual climbing, we were impressed with the local hospitality, the excellent food, the sheer amount one can eat and cultural attractions in this area. What we discovered therefore is an ideal place to spend our holidays: not only climbing but also sea, culture, good food and good weather. This area is in fact one of the driest in all of Italy! So after climbing all morning, or on a rest day, we recommend a visit to Monte Sant'Angelo, San Giovanni Rotondo and the nearby crags at Manfredonia and Rignano Garganico.
We will definitely return, the area still holds some great potential and there's plenty here for both beginners and experts alike.Above all though, the area offers a superb mix for those who want to climb and relax and spend time with their families.
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Al varo | 20m | 5b | |
Via a buchi. 10 spit | ||||
2 | Via del geko furioso | 25m | 7a | |
Via in placca, primi spit impegnativi. 12 spit | ||||
3 | Via dei solisti | 26m | 5b | |
Diedro naturale con un paio di passaggi più esposti. 8 spit | ||||
4 | Peppa Pig | 30m | 6c | |
Due spit in comune con la via dei solisti, due diedri con passaggio singolo. 15 spit | ||||
5 | Via della Ragione | 20m | 7a | |
Placca strapiombante, via tecnica. 9 spit | ||||
6 | Rebecca | 25m | 7a | |
Fatevi le canne. 9 spit | ||||
7 | Il terzo dente | 30m | 7c | |
Boulder finale. 12 spit | ||||
8 | Progetto Pace | 30m | ? | |
Sequenza fisica in strapiombo. Da liberare. 9 spit | ||||
9 | Masa dura | 25m | ? | |
Placca dura con passaggio di blocco sul tetto. Da liberare. 13 spit. | ||||
9 | Via dei Dauni | 7b+ | ||
Via già esistente con prese scavate | ||||
10 | Tarantella | 15m | 6b+ | |
Strapiombo sulla grotta e uscita in placca. 6 spit | ||||
11 | Il ravanatore | 30m | 6a | |
Passaggio tecnico in placca e diedro nascosto. | ||||
12 | Raponzolo marino | 15m | 6a | |
Varia e divertente con sezione finale in placca. 7 spit | ||||
13 | Passo dopo passo | 15m | 6a | |
Placca a buchi e lama, strapiombo iniziale. 6 spit | ||||
14 | Marilù (Tarcisio e Marco) | 18m | 6a | |
Passaggio iniziale strapiombante. 7 spit | ||||
15 | Un sasso tira l'altro (Alessandro e Andrea) | 15m | 5c | |
Placca a buchi. 7 spit | ||||
16 | Vera via (Tarcisio e Alessandro) | 15m | 4+ | |
Placca semplice in partenza, passaggio tecnico, placca, arrivo verticale a buchi. 6 spit |