Torre del Porto

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Guide Alpine Madonna di Campiglio
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Climbing at Torre del Porto, Mattinata (Italy)
Guide alpine Madonna di Campiglio
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4+ - ?
Height
50m
Routes number
17
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
NW


The Madonna di Campiglio Mountain Guides were guests in Mattinata thanks to Michael Granatiero, president of the local tourist association and owner of the Hotel Torre del Porto,and by Marco di Bari, a friend of Madonna di Campiglio Guide and president of the ASD Gargano Woodcraft.

After carefully examining the area the guides identified a crag, circa 100 meters wide and 50 high, lcoated in the area known as Ripe Rosse close to Mattinata. Situated within the Gargano natural Park and with a splendid view onto the sea, this crag faces NW and offers solid, compact limestone. Traces of one previous route were found and after some thorough cleaning 16 routes were bolted and climbed.

In addition to this crag, we also noted the potential for other crags, all with excellent access . Although there is not a huge quantity of rock in this area of the Gargano, the quality of the limestone is superb. We also noted, unfortunately, that at Ripe Rosse a 200m face of superb limestone has been, inexplicably, covered with wire-mesh protection nets.

Apart from the actual climbing, we were impressed with the local hospitality, the excellent food, the sheer amount one can eat and cultural attractions in this area. What we discovered therefore is an ideal place to spend our holidays: not only climbing but also sea, culture, good food and good weather. This area is in fact one of the driest in all of Italy! So after climbing all morning, or on a rest day, we recommend a visit to Monte Sant'Angelo, San Giovanni Rotondo and the nearby crags at Manfredonia and Rignano Garganico.

We will definitely return, the area still holds some great potential and there's plenty here for both beginners and experts alike.Above all though, the area offers a superb mix for those who want to climb and relax and spend time with their families.




Sectors

Torri del Porto
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Al varo 20m 5b
Via a buchi. 10 spit
2 Via del geko furioso 25m 7a
Via in placca, primi spit impegnativi. 12 spit
3 Via dei solisti 26m 5b
Diedro naturale con un paio di passaggi più esposti. 8 spit
4 Peppa Pig 30m 6c
Due spit in comune con la via dei solisti, due diedri con passaggio singolo. 15 spit
5 Via della Ragione 20m 7a
Placca strapiombante, via tecnica. 9 spit
6 Rebecca 25m 7a
Fatevi le canne. 9 spit
7 Il terzo dente 30m 7c
Boulder finale. 12 spit
8 Progetto Pace 30m ?
Sequenza fisica in strapiombo. Da liberare. 9 spit
9 Masa dura 25m ?
Placca dura con passaggio di blocco sul tetto. Da liberare. 13 spit.
9 Via dei Dauni 7b+
Via già esistente con prese scavate
10 Tarantella 15m 6b+
Strapiombo sulla grotta e uscita in placca. 6 spit
11 Il ravanatore 30m 6a
Passaggio tecnico in placca e diedro nascosto.
12 Raponzolo marino 15m 6a
Varia e divertente con sezione finale in placca. 7 spit
13 Passo dopo passo 15m 6a
Placca a buchi e lama, strapiombo iniziale. 6 spit
14 Marilù (Tarcisio e Marco) 18m 6a
Passaggio iniziale strapiombante. 7 spit
15 Un sasso tira l'altro (Alessandro e Andrea) 15m 5c
Placca a buchi. 7 spit
16 Vera via (Tarcisio e Alessandro) 15m 4+
Placca semplice in partenza, passaggio tecnico, placca, arrivo verticale a buchi. 6 spit





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4+ - ?
Height
50m
Routes number
17
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
NW


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