Nicholas Hobley, photos Niall Grimes
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Michele della Vigna climbing the famous E3 6a 'Smear test' at the Roaches, UK
Riky Felderer
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
M - E7
Height
25m
Routes number
87
Rock type
Gritstone
Orientation
W
Rope
2 half ropes.


The Roaches stands out as one of the best gritstone crags in the country and as such it holds a very special place in the heart of British climbers. Situated further south than most other outcrops, it is divided up into three distinct sectors: the sheltered and at times humid Lower Tier featured here, the more exposed, windy and imposing Upper Tier and finally the atmospheric and remote Skyline area.

Given the beauty of the crag, it is unsurprising that the list of first ascentionists reads like the Who's Who of British climbing: John Allen, Joe Brown, Nick Dixon, Gary Gibson, Pete Harding, Simon Nadin, Don Whillans and Johnny Woodward are just a select few of those who left their mark on these walls. They all helped produce classic routes ranging for easy cracks to extremely tenuous pebble-pulling slabs and lines such as Valkyrie VS 4c, Via Dolorosa VS 4c, The Sloth HVS 5a, Saul's Crack HVS 5a, Elegy E2 5c, Wings of Unreason E4 6a and Thin Air E5 6a are regarded as some of best and most popular in the country.

Some routes are almost a hundred years old, yet regardless of the age, the proud Roaches will certainly continue to be a shrine for many generations to come.

Access

From Leek drive north along the A53 towards Buxton, at Upper Hulme turn off left and continue along the road until the crag springs into view on the right. park in the lay-bys on the right.

Logistics

Campsite with holiday cottages at The Roaches Tea Rooms, just opposite the crag.

Period

Spring and autumn. On clear winter days the friction is at its best, but beware of strong winds.

Climb

Gritstone climbing at its best: technical, balancy, powerful and pumpy all at the same time. The crag is suitable for families.

Notes

The Peak District
Squashed between the northern industrial cities Manchester and Sheffield, the Peak District has always been a haven of peace for those fleeing these massive industrial metropolis in search of solitude and untouched nature. Dotted within this rolling countryside are rugged gritstone outcrops, each unique, each with routes of almost all grades and danger levels. "God's own rock", as it is often described, can be so addictive that it is not uncommon to see climbers continuing even when it rains; saner wet weather alternatives include a visit to one of the numerous indoor climbing walls or an enormous mug of tea in a cafe.

Roaches Access Issues
Climbers are asked to take note of the following: Please keep to the established footpaths and try not to make short-cut across open moorland areas.
As a result of the Roaches popularity, parking has become a serious issue. Limited parking is available and climbers should aim to arrive early at weekends and bank holidays or go elsewhere. Do not block roadways, you will hinder emergency vehicles and you will be fined. Do not leave anything on show - thieves are active in the area For full information check out www.thebmc.co.uk


Photo: Tina Gardner on the crux of Yong HVD. Photo Niall Grimes

Bibliography

The Roaches - Definitive Climbing Guide from the BMC to Routes and Bouldering on Staffordshire Grit by Niall Grimes, BMC


Western Grit - by Chris Craggs and Alan James, RockFax




Sectors

Lower Tier Left
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Snap, Crackle and Andy Popp 7m E1 5c
2 Apache Dawn 8m E5 6c
3 Catastrophe Internationale 8m E5 6b
4 Slippery Jim 7m HVS 5a
5 Bareback Rider 8m E4 6b
6 K.P. Nuts 8m E6 7a
7 Traverse of Man V2 (5c)
8 Ascent of Man 10m E3 6a
9 Days of Future Passed 9m E3 6b
10 The Aspirant 8m E3 5c
11 Ackit 15m HVS 5b
12 Just for Today 9m E6 7a
13 Barriers in Time 16m E6 6b
14 Inertia Reel Traverse V12 (7a)
15 Ant Lives V6 6b)
16 Sunday at Chapel 9m E6 6c
17 Inertia Reel V7 (6c)
18 Teck Crack Direct V5 (6b)
19 Teck Crack Super-Direct V9 (6c)
20 The Dignity of Labour V6 (6b)
21 Teck Crack 26m HVS 5b
22 Skydivin' V5 (6b)
23 Lightning Crack 8m, 12m HVS 5b, 4c
24 Mushin' V10 (7a)
25 The Boozy Traverse V8 (6b)
26 Pindles Numb 11m E4 6b
27 Crystal Grazer 11m E5 6a
28 A Fist Full of Crystals 12m E6 6b
29 Doug 12m E8 6c
30 Fred's Cafè 12m VS 5a
Lower Tier Right
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
31 Yong Arete 7m S
32 Poisonous Python 8m E2 5b
33 Yong 9m HVD 4a
34 Something Better Change 9m E2 5b
35 Wisecrack 8m VS 4c
36 Hypothesis 10m E1 5b
37 Destination Earth 12m E6 6b
38 Cannonball Crack 11m S 4b
39 Graffiti 15m E1 5b
40 Dorothy's Dilemma 18m E1 5a
41 Bengal Buttress 30m HVS 4c
42 Schoolies 22m E4 5c
43 Steps 23m E5 6b
44 Crack of Gloom 23m E2 5b
45 Raven Rock Gully Left-Hand 20m VS 4b
46 Raven Rock Gully 20m D
47 Sidewinder 25m E5 6a
48 Via Dolorosa 8m, 10m, 15m VS 4c, 4a, 4c
49 Via Dolorosa Variations HS 4a
50 Valkyrie Direct 25m HVS 5b
51 The Gutter V7
52 Matinee 15m, 8m HVS 5a,5b
53 Valkyrie 15m, 23m VS 4b, 4c
54 Northern Comfort 10m E6 6c
55 Licence to Run 10m E4 6a
56 Licence to Lust 10m E4 6a
57 Valkyrie Corner 25m HS 4b
58 Eugene's Axe 20m E2 5c
59 Pebbledash 12m, 9m HVS 5a, 4b
60 Secrets of Dance 20m E4 6a
61 Against the Grain 20m E6 7a
62 Thing on a Spring 20m E6 7a
63 The Swan 24m E3 5c
64 Up The Swanee 22m E4 5c
65 The Mincer 20m HVS 5b
66 Swan Bank 20m E4 5c
67 Smear Test 11m E3 6a
68 Pincer 20m VS 5a
69 Bloodstone 19m E5 6b
70 Bloodspeed 19m E6 6b
71 Cold Blood 13m E5 6b
72 Guano Gully 13m HS 4b
73 Mousey's Mistake 15m E2 5b
74 A Little Peculiar 16m E7 7b
75 Elegy 16m E2 5c
76 Clive Coolhead Realises the Excitement of Knowing You May Be the Author of Your Own Death is More Intense Than Orgasm 16m E5 6b
77 The Bulger 16m VS 4c
78 Dirty Wee Rouge 13m E3 6a
79 Fledgling's Climb 13m S 4a
80 Wing Wing 9m HS 4a
81 Little Chimney 9m M
82 Battery Crack 10m VS 4b
83 Lucas Chimney 11m S 4a
84 Hawkwing 21m E1 5b
85 Carrion 19m E3 5c
86 Kestrel Crack 20m HS 4b
87 Headless Horseman 20m E1 5b
88 Logical Progression 18m E7 6c
89 Flimney 18m S 4a
90 The Death Knell 10m E4 5c
91 Rhodren 11m HVS 5b
92 Flake Chimney 14m D
93 Straight Crack 10m HS 4a
94 Punch 14m E3 6b
95 Choka 12m E1 5c
96 Stolen Days 10m E2 5c
97 Circuit Breaker 10m E3 6a
98 Hunky Dory 10m E3 6a
99 Prow Corner 12m VD
100 Corner Cracks 10m HVD 4a
101 Chalkstorm 10m E3 5c
102 Prow Cracks 10m HD
103 Voila 3 8m E4 6a
104 Commander Energy 12m E2 5c
105 Sumo Cellulite 12m E4 6a
106 Rocking Stone Gully 8m VD
107 Captain Lethargy 8m VD
108 Sifta's Quid 9m HS 4c
109 Obsession Fatale 11m E7 6b
110 Piece of Mind 11m E6 6b
111 Final Destination 9m E8 6c
112 The Thin Air 9m E5 6a





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
M - E7
Height
25m
Routes number
87
Rock type
Gritstone
Orientation
W
Rope
2 half ropes.


Position



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