Aris Theodoropoulos
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Aris Theodoropoulos archive
Plakias, Creta, Grecia
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 8a+
Height
35m
Routes number
22
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SW
Rope
70m rope


Crete, the largest island in Greece, is famous for its remarkable history, its rugged beauty and long sandy beaches which make it an ideal holiday destination for thousands of tourists every year. While the vast majority flock to the northern shores, most do not realise that this wild and arid island is extremely attractive for those in search of solitary treks down winding gorges, ski mountaineering high in the mountains, long multi-pitch climbs and difficult sport climbs just a stone's throw from the less crowded sandy beaches in the south. Plakias itself is a sheer vertical limestone wall which dominates the sandy beach close to town on the island's south. The first climbs were established in the early '80's but the majority were developed fairly recently, and some projects are still waiting to be freed. Plakias is special little crag but it certainly isn't the only place to climb on Crete: Agiofaraggo is the most famous outcrop on this enormous island with circa 80 routes up to 8b, while other important areas include Trahoulas and Kapetaniana. If you're planning on combing relaxation, culture and climbing, Crete may be just the island you're looking for.
Access
Either fly or take a ferry to Crete. Plakias is located 35km due south of Rethymnon, one of the main cities in northern Crete. The cliff is situated at the eastern edge of the town above a very beautiful sandy nudist beach. Logistics
Accommodation in Plakias. Period
The best climbing seasons in Plakias are spring and autumn, but even summer is OK as long as you stay in the shade. The cliff is in the shade from morning until almost 15:00. Avoid climbing on windy days. Climb
As can be seen from the photos, the crag is a completely smooth vertical limestone face, with some nice cracks and small tufas. Bibliography
Greece Sport Climbing: The Best Of
by Aris Theodoropoulos
Includes the following area:
Thessaly: Meteora; Pyli Little Gorge; Mouzaki; Almyros
Athens area (Central Greece): Mavrosouvala; Hasia Cave; Acharneis; Mikri Varasova/Epos Filis; Sesi; Vrachokipos; Lelaki; Chaos
Patras area (Western Greece): Alepochori; Chatzouri; Kleisoura; Varasova
Peloponnese ( Southern Greece): Nafplio; Leonidio; Kyparissi; Zobolo; Lagada; Nedousa
Aegean islands: Symi; Anafi; Crete (the crags: Voulismeno Aloni, Plakias and Tersanas Cave)



Sectors

Plakias
Routes from left to right.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Trihes stin Palami 15m 5a
2 Vandalup 12m 5b
3 Vandalup extension 18m 6a
4 Menios 20m 6a
5 Eptapsyhos 25m 6b
6 Dog- Manolis 25m 6c+
7 Project Minimalist Direct
8 Minimalist 25m 7c+/8a
9 Minotavros 25m 7b+
10 Space cake 23m 8a+
11 Opios fovatai peftei kai koimatai 23m 7c
12 Koufala project
13 Project
14 Fisfiri 25m 6b
15 Project
16 Ariadne 15m 6b
17 Ariadne Extension 45m 7a+
18 Tsaba byra 25m 7a+
19 Fodele 23m 5c
20 Fodele extension 40m 6a+
21 Kill the doc 30m 6c+
22 Helenje 23m 6c
23 Helenje extension 7a 35m
24 Project
25 Ahiva la ostia 35m 7b+
26 Original 30m 7c+/8a
27 Mafalda project





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5a - 8a+
Height
35m
Routes number
22
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
SW
Rope
70m rope


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