Nifada Leonidio
Crag developed by Austrian climbers Angela Eiter and Bernie Ruech in 2015. Angela Eiter reports the following:
"Unlike the usual climbing trips, in February 2015 Bernie and I aimed to establish a new crag at Kosmas close to Leonidio. During the trip we encountered some difficulties due to a bout of bad weather and we were forced to return in May.
The whole trip was something special, in particular when we searched for a way to reach the crag for the first time. In winter we hiked up through snow and ice and in spring we had to walk carefully to avoid stepping on snakes hidden in the thicket. I actually got closely to treading on one, but saw it just in time. When we arrived at the crag we examined the most inspiring lines that seemed feasible. Bernie had already bolted some routes in the past, while I was excited to place some bolts for the first time and create entire routes from scratch.
"Donkey Kong" will always remain etched in our memory: Bernie totally ran out of energy after he had bolted the 20 meter long roof and it was an honour to make the first ascent of this amazing line, which Bernie had dedicated to me.
It was great and thrilling to make the first steps on our routes. We tried to find the natural rhythm of the rock by checking out all its single moves. Surprisingly, we completed our 14 routes quite quickly. Both Bernie and I made seven first ascents each. This varied climbing was so motivating that in the end I managed to tick the crag and climb all the routes.
It was a privilege to give each route a special name. For instance, the route "In memo Martin" and its extension "CAC" remind us on our friends who have battled and are battling against cancer. Furthermore, the route "Baum des Lebens" gets its name from the thick tufa at the beginning and the thin tufas at the top, that make it look like a tree trunk with branches. This is currently the hardest line at our crag and I succeeded in the redpoint after a tough battle. With these names and what turned out to be difficult routes we completed our crag "Nifada"."
Drive from Elona to Kosmas. At the 3rd hairpin bend park the car. Continue on foot, following the red markers to the crag in about 20 minutes.
PeriodSpring and autumn. Since it’s located at circa 800m above sea level you can also encounter good conditions in summer. In winter it’s very cold and most of the routes are wet.
BibliographyGreece Sport Climbing: The Best Of by Aris Theodoropoulos
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Igel | 15 m | 7c | |
2 | Sonic | 15 m | 7a | |
3 | Der Igel schlägt zurück | 20 m | 7c+ | |
4 | Stelli Mantrisch | 15 m | 7b | |
5 | Baumkraxler | 15 m | 8a | |
5 | Baum des Lebens | 25 m | 8c/+ | |
6 | In Memo Martin | 15 m | 7a+/b | |
6 | CAC | 25 m | 8a+ | |
7 | Wings for Life | 30 m | 8b | |
8 | Angi Orangi | 15 m | 7a+ | |
8 | Angi Orangi ext. | 30 m | 8a+ | |
9 | Donkey Kong Junior | 25 m | 8a | |
10 | Rainbow Warrier | 25 m | 8c | |
11 | K3 Climbing | 15 m | 7c+ | |
12 | First Class | 15 m | 8a | |
13 | Bergsteigerkante | 10 m | 8a | |
13 | Bergsteigerkante ext. | 20 m | 8b+ | |
14 | Bernie Musculus | 15 m | 8a |