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Umpa Lumpa, Sicily
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
3a - 5c
Routes number
27
Rock type
Gneiss
Orientation
South
The crag Lago di Sant'Anna is located in NE Italy, close to Sant'Anna di Vinadio in Valle Stura, immersed in a splendid countryside and surrounded by magnificent alpine peaks. The crag is reached by driving past the village Vinadio, famous for its Albertine fort, up along the steep road to an altitude of 2035 metres and the highest sanctuary in Europe, the Santuario di Sant'Anna.At this point the road bears left (following signs for Apparizione) to reach a small fountain and statue on a large boulder in memory of Sant'Anna who appeared in front of a young girl shepherding her sheep. From here a path leads to the beautiful lakes of St. Anna and the Tesina pass, and during my numerous walks here in complete tranquility, on the lookout for new places to explore and to photograph small gentians, dense rhododendron bushes, fearful chamois and majestic griffins, I noticed a beautiful rock face at circa 2200 meters, in an unique setting, right above Lago grande di St. Anna.This seemed the ideal place for climbing and so, after numerous "tiring" days bolting the cliffs with my friend and climbing partner Bruno Milano, we established this crag. Currently there are 27 routes, 2 of which are multi-pitches, and all are superbly bolted. In addition, there is a small sector comprised of 5 easy routes, ideal for children and beginners. The location is truly beautiful and after an easy, 20 minute stroll you can climb here in complete safety, at altitude in magnificent settings.
Access
From Cuneo continue towards Valle Stura di Demonte (SS 21 towards Colle della Maddalena), drive past Vinadio and turn off left for the Santuario di S.Anna and Colle della Lombarda. Leave Vallone della Lombarda to your left and continue to the sanctuary and on to the Scoglio dell'Apparizione (1km). Park here in the gravel car park. Continue on foot towards Passo Tesina, reach the third lake, walk past this (on the right) and cut through the meadow leftwards (30 minutes from the car park). The crag can already be made out from the second lake. Logistics
Albergo Nasi, Bagni di Vinadio. 0171/95834 Climb
The crag is split into three sectors: Settore Sinistro, Settore Centrale and Settore Destro. Sector Bimbo is located slightly further to the right. Notes
At the start of 2012 a new crag will be bolted nearby with the financial support of the Vinadio Tourist Office.
From Cuneo continue towards Valle Stura di Demonte (SS 21 towards Colle della Maddalena), drive past Vinadio and turn off left for the Santuario di S.Anna and Colle della Lombarda. Leave Vallone della Lombarda to your left and continue to the sanctuary and on to the Scoglio dell'Apparizione (1km). Park here in the gravel car park. Continue on foot towards Passo Tesina, reach the third lake, walk past this (on the right) and cut through the meadow leftwards (30 minutes from the car park). The crag can already be made out from the second lake. Logistics
Albergo Nasi, Bagni di Vinadio. 0171/95834 Climb
The crag is split into three sectors: Settore Sinistro, Settore Centrale and Settore Destro. Sector Bimbo is located slightly further to the right. Notes
At the start of 2012 a new crag will be bolted nearby with the financial support of the Vinadio Tourist Office.
Sectors
Settore Sinistro
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N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Chalet Ischiator | 10m | 5c | |
Verticale | ||||
2 | Rif. Sabarnui | 16m | 5a | |
Verticale | ||||
3 | L’inizio | 17m | 3a | |
Placca | ||||
4 | Variante | 12m | 3a | |
Placca | ||||
5 | Creperie Strepeis | 17m | 3a | |
Placca | ||||
6 | I sordi | 22m, 15m | 5c, 4c | |
Verticale, placca | ||||
7 | Kashmir | 22m, 15m | 5b, 4b | |
Verticale, placca |
Settore Centrale
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N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ivo il Terribile | 9m | 5b | |
Verticale | ||||
2 | Oscar e il Rif. Migliorero | 8m | 5c | |
Verticale | ||||
3 | Walter (Il Barba) | 9m | 5a | |
Verticale | ||||
4 | Iaia | 8m | 5c | |
Verticale | ||||
5 | Hurricane | 8m | 4c | |
Verticale | ||||
6 | Camping Nasi | 17m | 3b | |
Placca | ||||
7 | Barbara | 6m | 4c | |
Placca | ||||
8 | Carletto | 5m | 3b | |
Placca | ||||
9 | Raffaele | 12m | 4a | |
Placca | ||||
10 | Francesco (Il Genovese) | 7m | 5c | |
Verticale |
Settore Destro
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N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Beppe Tarditi | 8m | 6a+ | |
Strapiombo | ||||
2 | Don Albino | 7m | 4b | |
Placca | ||||
3 | Dancing in the Dark | 10m | 3b | |
Placca | ||||
4 | La tenda dei pescatori | 12m | 3a | |
Placca | ||||
5 | Cattivo tempo | 13m | 4b | |
Placca |
Settore Bimbo Climbing
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N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Goldrake | 5m | 3a | |
Placca | ||||
2 | Mazzinga Z | 6m | 3a | |
Placca | ||||
3 | Captain Harlock | 6m | 3a | |
Placca | ||||
4 | Daitarn 3 | 6m | 3a | |
Placca | ||||
5 | Voltron | 6m | 3a | |
Placca |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
3a - 5c
Routes number
27
Rock type
Gneiss
Orientation
South
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