Kalymnos - Black Buddha
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Aris Theodoropoulos
1 / 3
http://climbkalymnos.com/
Sector Black Buddha is high above Arginonta Bay, with beautiful and unusual views over the village and the sea. With many hours of mid-day shade this is another good option for hot days; however, the approach path is in the sun. Routes are around 6a, on grey/black slabby rock full of small bulges and big holds often hiding overhead. Most routes were equipped by Claude Idoux in 2015/16.
Go to Arginonta village. Immediately after the small honey shop, turn right. Pass in front of the church and continue on a concrete road. Park further along, where the road splits and there is an unfinished stone structure. Walk to the right along a faded dirt road, which goes uphill then leftwards, and turns into a path entering a narrow gully. Walk up the gully until you see a cairn on the right. Continue up the steep winding path following the cairns. Walking time: 25 min.
PeriodBlack Buddha is in the shade from 10:00 until 16:00; the approach, though, is in the sun.
ClimbOn slabs full of good holds, small bulges and some horizontal streaks, vertical walls with small holds and juggy bulges, but also steep overhangs with jugs and some colonettes. The cliff is north-facing, well-bolted, and though originally covered in dry thorny bushes and shrubs, thorough cleaning uncovered quite a few highly enjoyable and varied lines.
NotesGrades are not confirmed yet, as the routes are very new and have only seen a handful of ascents. After climbing at Arginonta Valley or Black Buddha, the handful of small friendly shops in Arginonta are perfect for relaxing.
Kids: Both sectors have some suitable areas, though the approach to Black Buddha is much longer and steep at parts. Remember that kids must always be away from the cliffs and never directly beneath climbers.
Kalymnos Rock Climbing Guide – 2016 Edition. Aris Theodoropoulos. 3000 rock climbs, English
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