Huntsman's Leap

Wales>Pembroke>Bosherston
Nicholas Hobley, photo Maurizio Oviglia
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Huntsman's Leap, Pembroke, Wales
Maurizio Oviglia
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
E1 - E8
Height
35m
Routes number
57
Orientation
W, E
Rope
Double 50m x 9mm ropes


Huntsman's Leap in South Wales is, alongside St. Govan's Head, one of the most popular sea cliffs in Pembroke and quite rightly so. The steep gorge offers superb climbing in highly atmospheric surroundings; it is tidal and the fact that the sea, invariably, returns to the base of the routes renders the outings all the more drammatic and with a sense of urgency. Although the first routes were climbed in 1978, the main development of the East and West walls took place in the mid '80's, spearheaded by none other than Pat Littlejohn, who established classics such as Witch Hunt E4 6b and Darkness at Noon E5 6a, and Gary Gibson, who left his mark with the likes of Quiet Waters E3 5c and Souls E6 6b. The majority of the routes are in the mid to upper E grades and the climbing is strenuous, technical and serious and should never be underestimated, especially since the narrow zawn is accessed by abseil only and the easiet way out is up an E1. Put simply, British sea cliff climbing at its best!
Access
Huntsman's Leap is located on the SW tip of Wales, just west of the St. Govan's Head. From Pembroke drive south to Bosherston, then continue south to the parking lot at trevalleh Downs. Continue on foot west to the Leap, which is in fact not the first but the second cove you get to. Logistics
The best base is around Bosherston where there is a very basic campsite and an excellent pub and cafe, but little else! More luxurious camping facilities are available at St Petrox, a short distance away. Although highly regarded, this area is very rarely crowded apart from during the English Bank holidays. The first weekend in May is particularly popular when there is a great community atmosphere around the crags, campsite and St Govan's Country Inn. Period
Summer Climb
The climbing at Huntsman's Leap is serious and should not be underestimated. All routes require excellent gear placing skills and although there is some in-situ pro, much of this is in poor condition. Notes
All routes require excellent gear placing skills and although there is some in-situ pro, most of this is in poor condition. An abseil rope will be necessay to abseil down in the Leap.


Bibliography


Pembroke by Alan James and Mike Robertson, Rockfax Publishing



Sectors

East Wall
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Magazine People 32m E5 6b
2 Specimen Hunter 32m E5 6b
3 Quiet Waters Direct 32m E3 5c
4 Shape-Up 33m E1 5b
5 Fitzcarraldo 35m E5 6a
6 Slap-Up/Fitz-In 35m E5 6b
7 Wrap-Up 35m E3 6a
8 The Beast from the Undergrowth 35m E2 5b
9 The Pulsebeat 35m E6 6b
10 Compulsion 35m E6 6a
11 Moving Away from the Pulsebeat 37m E4 6a
12 Strap-Up 37m E3 5c
13 Vladimir on the Rocks 37m E4 6a
14 Monsterosity 50m E5 6b
15 Monster-growth from the Underbeast 45m E5 6a
16 Monster Modello 50m E5 6a
17 The Monster Mash 50m E3 6a
18 Mythical Monster 50m E2 5c
19 The Honey Monster 55m E2 5b
20 Meet the Monster Tonight 45m E4 6a
21 Release the Bats 45m E5 6a
22 The Ducking Stool 45m E5 6a
West Wall
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Woeful 45m E5 6b
2 Darkness at Noon 35m E5 6a
3 Night-Seeker 35m E6 6b
4 Hunter-Killer 35m E6 6b
5 Nothing to Fear 35m E8 6b
6 Terminal Twilight 35m E7 6b
7 The Black Lagoon 35m E7 6b
8 Light at the End of the Runnel 35m E6 6b
9 Little Hunt 35m E6 6b
10 Witch Hunt 45m E4 6b
11 Chupacabra 35m E8 6c
12 Boat to Naxos 35m E7 6b
13 Souls 35m E6 6b
14 Half Man, Half Beast 35m E6 6b
15 The Minotaur 35m E5 6a
16 Theseus 35m E6 6c
17 The Subterranean 35m E6 6b
18 Head Hunter 35m E4 6a
19 Snake Charmer 35m E5 6c
20 The White Hotel 35m E6 6c
21 The Witching Hour 35m E6 6b
22 Wicked Witch of the West 35m E6 6b
23 Bloody Sunday 35m E4 6a
24 Just Another Day 35m E4 6a
25 Scorch the Earth 35m E4 6a





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
E1 - E8
Height
35m
Routes number
57
Orientation
W, E
Rope
Double 50m x 9mm ropes


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