Ekaitz Maiz
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The beautiful climbing area Etxauri, with more than 800 routes from 4a to 9a one of the most important crags in the Basque country, Spain.
Ekaitz Maiz
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a -9a
Routes number
800
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
South
Rope
80m rope


Etxauri is one of the classic crags in the entire Euskal Herria. The area was formed due to a massive fault line which shaped the Sierra de Sarbil mountains and in doing so created rock faces and peaks that have attracted climbers and mountaineers since the early ages. In fact, according to local legend climbing started in 1728: a cross and inscription on the summit of Kantero, the monolith whose summit can only be reached by rock climbing, proves that Etxauri really does have a long vertical history.

There are circa 800 routes in the area and the wide variety of rock faces ensures that there is climbing of all grades and styles, from easy grade III outings to extreme 9a's. In recent years the crag hit the international limelight when Patxi Usobiaga made the world's first 8c+ on-sight by climbing the Bizi euskara.

Access

Etxauri lies 13 kilometers from Pamplona-Iruña, while the new sectors such as Kale borroka lie a further 5km west. From Pamplona leave the A15 at Arazuri and take the NA-7000 west to Etxauri.

Logistics

Etxauri is the traditional climbers hangout, with a bar, pharmacy, swimming pool, butcher etc. The closest supermarket is at Ororbia or Pamplona. Wild camping is prohibited. A small refuge which sleeps 6 is located in the sector Pared del Refugio.

The closest campgrounds are Camping Lizarra Kanpina (www.campinglizarra.com), Camping Mendigorria (www.campingelmolino.com) and Camping Ezkaba at Pamplona (www.campingezcaba.com).

Period

Etxauri faces south and climbing is possible all year, though we recommend you avoid the hot summer months. Conditions are best with a cold north wind.

Climb

Walls of excellent compact limestone, some sectors are dedicated exclusively to sport climbing, and there are also several multi-pitch routes. Most routes ascend vertical slabs or slightly overhanging face, and the climbing is mainly technical and crimpy, but there are routes of all styles including cracks and corners.

Notes

There are numerous other smaller quality crags close to Etxauri worth visiting. The best of these are San Fausto, Estella, Errekagaitzeta, Peñartea and Lezaia, while the closest bouldering area is Larraona. All are located within an hour's drive from Etxauri. In case of bad weather the closest climbing wall is Rocopolis at Berrioplano, just north of Pamplona. www.rocopolis.com

Festivities
Pamplona ha s a vibrant nightlife. Etxauri celebrates its local holiday during the first week of June, while Pamplona's Los Sanfermines from 7 -14 July needs no presentation. There are plenty of pleasant walks in the valleys around Etxauri.

Other
A final note: in the past thieves operated in the Etxauri area and although in recent years this problem disappeared, it is nevertheless advisable to not leave any valuables in the car.

Bibliography

Euskalarria, Sport Climbing in the Basque Country by Martín Ramirez de Alda, Miguel Angel Mulas, Iñaki Marco and Ekaitz Maiz




Sectors

Ditusuaien
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 El estigma del fracaso 7a+
2 La amarga condicion humana 7b+
3 Doble cero 7b+
4 Makoki 7a+
5 El ombligo de Venus 7b
6 La Majari 7a+
7 Las Maravi 7b+
8 Harri eta herri 7c
9 Ekaitza eta barealdia 7c+
10 Ditusuaien 7a
11 Punto de inflexion 7a+
12 Black power 7a+
13 Diente puto 7b
14 La desgracia hippy cayo sobre nosotros 7b
Afrikana - Cuestas
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Tananarriba ?
2 Tananaribo 6c+
3 Africanito direct 6c
4 Cuzado magico 7a
5 Africanito 5c
6 Salamalekun 7b
7 Kalahari 8a
8 Marihuana pa fuma 7b, 8a
9 Sahara 7b, 8a+
10 Napartheid 6c, 7c
11 Just for men 7a
12 Africana 6a, 6b
13 Campo base 7c
14 El rescatador 7b+
15 Everest 7c+
16 Uso excusivo bomberos 8a+/b
17 Marjo 8b
18 Durandal 8a+
19 Anorexia 8b
20 Xabi askatu 8b
21 Hau Euskal Herria da! 8b+
22 8000 hostias 8a+
23 El Subterraneo 8a
24 El fracasibo 8a
25 Convivencia 7c
26 Sobre heroes y tumbas 7c





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a -9a
Routes number
800
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
South
Rope
80m rope


Position



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