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Casal Pianos, Portugal
Fernando Pereira.
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
III – 7c
Height
25m
Routes number
55
Rock type
Black and grey basalt
Orientation
West
Rope
50m
Casal Pianos is a newly discovered sea cliff 30km northwest of Lisbon, just south of the surfing Mecca Ericeira. The crag is cut sheerly by pristine cracks and in many ways the climbing is reminiscent of that in England's Peak District, with a beautiful scenery composed by the grayish black basalt rock above the Atlantic ocean.
Access
From Lisbon take the IC19 west and then the A16 north towards Mafra/Ericeira. Exit the A16 for "Praias" and follow this road, ignoring the next exit for Praias. Continue towards "Magoito" and just before entering this turn off for "Tojeira". At the ridiculous roundabout take the road signposted "Casal Pianos". After 2 km continue by dirt track until this finishes by a closed gate on the left. Park here, cross over the gate and walk for 5 minutes towards the sea.38°53'35.82"N 9°26'17.22"W Logistics
Campinggrounds can be found in Ericeira or Praia Grande. Lodges, supermarkets and restaurants are available in the main villages. Period
Spring and autumn, but climbing is possible all year. Climb
The cliffs are generally vertical, crack climbing and technical slabs prevail. Most of the routes are about 20m high although lengths vary between 7 - 25m. Every route has two bolts at the top. Except for 4 routes with some bolts, all others are clean and require trad gear for protection. Typically friends are easy to place and nuts can be handy. Notes
In November 2009 Casal Pianos hosted an international climbing meeting. Check out this link for more information. Bibliography
The topo costs 5 euro and can be ordered through equipadores@gmail.com
From Lisbon take the IC19 west and then the A16 north towards Mafra/Ericeira. Exit the A16 for "Praias" and follow this road, ignoring the next exit for Praias. Continue towards "Magoito" and just before entering this turn off for "Tojeira". At the ridiculous roundabout take the road signposted "Casal Pianos". After 2 km continue by dirt track until this finishes by a closed gate on the left. Park here, cross over the gate and walk for 5 minutes towards the sea.38°53'35.82"N 9°26'17.22"W Logistics
Campinggrounds can be found in Ericeira or Praia Grande. Lodges, supermarkets and restaurants are available in the main villages. Period
Spring and autumn, but climbing is possible all year. Climb
The cliffs are generally vertical, crack climbing and technical slabs prevail. Most of the routes are about 20m high although lengths vary between 7 - 25m. Every route has two bolts at the top. Except for 4 routes with some bolts, all others are clean and require trad gear for protection. Typically friends are easy to place and nuts can be handy. Notes
In November 2009 Casal Pianos hosted an international climbing meeting. Check out this link for more information. Bibliography
The topo costs 5 euro and can be ordered through equipadores@gmail.com
Sectors
Casal Pianos
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Queda do Urso | V | ||
2 | O martelo de Thor | 6c | ||
3 | O Monstro | 6a | ||
4 | THP | 6b+ | ||
5 | Mãos finas ou desafinas | 7b | ||
6 | Tal Canal | 7a | ||
7 | Crash e aparece | 7b | ||
8 | Vida de Casal | 7b | ||
9 | Saca Pianos | 6b+ | ||
10 | Homem Demolidor | IV | ||
11 | Crack Kent | V | ||
12 | Super-Pateta | III | ||
13 | Homem Arranha | V | ||
14 | Flash Gordo | IV | ||
15 | Surfista Estatelado | V+ | ||
16 | Fantastic Four | V | ||
17 | Bassalto mortal | 6b+ | ||
18 | Duraço como palha d’aço | ? | ||
19 | Ovos moles | ? | ||
20 | Ar de gripe | 6c+ | ||
21 | C’a torre às costas | 6a+ | ||
22 | Duro mas só de ouvido | V | ||
23 | Torre c’abana | 6a+ | ||
24 | Hold school | V | ||
25 | Noite de Casal | 7c? | ||
26 | Cubo Mágico | ? | ||
27 | Vespa | 6c+ | ||
28 | Fuckalhão | V | ||
29 | Bachar | V+ | ||
30 | Tridente | 6a+ | ||
31 | Te das un hostion | V+ | ||
32 | Protão | V+ | ||
33 | Oh | fudid! | ||
34 | Lenho na face | 7b+? | ||
35 | Enxada na mão | IV | ||
36 | Mão inchada | 7a | ||
37 | Peste Suína | 6a+ | ||
38 | Entala ou enterra | 6b+ | ||
39 | Torre da Tranga | 6a+ | ||
40 | Suicídios em Massa | 6c+ | ||
41 | Ou mato ou morro | V | ||
42 | Piana Creek | 6b+ | ||
43 | Cu duro | ? | ||
44 | Filha d’Utah | 6c+ | ||
45 | Pata Agonia | 6a+ | ||
46 | Mortinho na Arcada | 6c | ||
47 | Supercrack | 6c | ||
48 | Umbiguidade dos critérios | 6c | ||
49 | Pesqueiro da Reboleda | 6b | ||
50 | Seabra: o meu pé-de-cabra! | 6b+ | ||
51 | Magoito interrompido | 6a+ | ||
52 | Chovem Pianos | 6a | ||
53 | Os Ecobullies | 7a | ||
54 | Chama eterna | 6a | ||
55 | 444 O autocarro fantasma | 7a |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
III – 7c
Height
25m
Routes number
55
Rock type
Black and grey basalt
Orientation
West
Rope
50m
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