Casal Pianos

Portugal>Lisboa>Lisboa>Sintra
Isabel Boavida
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Casal Pianos, Portugal
Fernando Pereira.
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
III – 7c
Height
25m
Routes number
55
Rock type
Black and grey basalt
Orientation
West
Rope
50m


Casal Pianos is a newly discovered sea cliff 30km northwest of Lisbon, just south of the surfing Mecca Ericeira. The crag is cut sheerly by pristine cracks and in many ways the climbing is reminiscent of that in England's Peak District, with a beautiful scenery composed by the grayish black basalt rock above the Atlantic ocean.
Access
From Lisbon take the IC19 west and then the A16 north towards Mafra/Ericeira. Exit the A16 for "Praias" and follow this road, ignoring the next exit for Praias. Continue towards "Magoito" and just before entering this turn off for "Tojeira". At the ridiculous roundabout take the road signposted "Casal Pianos". After 2 km continue by dirt track until this finishes by a closed gate on the left. Park here, cross over the gate and walk for 5 minutes towards the sea. 38°53'35.82"N 9°26'17.22"W Logistics
Campinggrounds can be found in Ericeira or Praia Grande. Lodges, supermarkets and restaurants are available in the main villages. Period
Spring and autumn, but climbing is possible all year. Climb
The cliffs are generally vertical, crack climbing and technical slabs prevail. Most of the routes are about 20m high although lengths vary between 7 - 25m. Every route has two bolts at the top. Except for 4 routes with some bolts, all others are clean and require trad gear for protection. Typically friends are easy to place and nuts can be handy. Notes
In November 2009 Casal Pianos hosted an international climbing meeting. Check out this link for more information. Bibliography
The topo costs 5 euro and can be ordered through equipadores@gmail.com



Sectors

Casal Pianos
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Queda do Urso V
2 O martelo de Thor 6c
3 O Monstro 6a
4 THP 6b+
5 Mãos finas ou desafinas 7b
6 Tal Canal 7a
7 Crash e aparece 7b
8 Vida de Casal 7b
9 Saca Pianos 6b+
10 Homem Demolidor IV
11 Crack Kent V
12 Super-Pateta III
13 Homem Arranha V
14 Flash Gordo IV
15 Surfista Estatelado V+
16 Fantastic Four V
17 Bassalto mortal 6b+
18 Duraço como palha d’aço ?
19 Ovos moles ?
20 Ar de gripe 6c+
21 C’a torre às costas 6a+
22 Duro mas só de ouvido V
23 Torre c’abana 6a+
24 Hold school V
25 Noite de Casal 7c?
26 Cubo Mágico ?
27 Vespa 6c+
28 Fuckalhão V
29 Bachar V+
30 Tridente 6a+
31 Te das un hostion V+
32 Protão V+
33 Oh fudid!
34 Lenho na face 7b+?
35 Enxada na mão IV
36 Mão inchada 7a
37 Peste Suína 6a+
38 Entala ou enterra 6b+
39 Torre da Tranga 6a+
40 Suicídios em Massa 6c+
41 Ou mato ou morro V
42 Piana Creek 6b+
43 Cu duro ?
44 Filha d’Utah 6c+
45 Pata Agonia 6a+
46 Mortinho na Arcada 6c
47 Supercrack 6c
48 Umbiguidade dos critérios 6c
49 Pesqueiro da Reboleda 6b
50 Seabra: o meu pé-de-cabra! 6b+
51 Magoito interrompido 6a+
52 Chovem Pianos 6a
53 Os Ecobullies 7a
54 Chama eterna 6a
55 444 O autocarro fantasma 7a





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
III – 7c
Height
25m
Routes number
55
Rock type
Black and grey basalt
Orientation
West
Rope
50m


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