Blue Mountains - Diamond Falls
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Simon Carter
Diamond Falls, Blue Mountains, Australia
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
24 - 33
Height
40m
Routes number
57
Rock type
Sandstone
Orientation
West
Rope
60m
Australia may not have high mountains by world standards but you’d never know this in the undeniable ruggedness of the Blue Mountains. They are not a range of jagged peaks but an elevated plateau cut by deep valleys, canyons and gullies ringed by sandstone escarpments. They begin barely eighty kilometres from Sydney where Australia was first settled by Europeans in 1788, yet it took many serious attempts spanning decades before the first white explorers could find a way through to the country out west.Climbers are lucky. Today a highway and railway cross the mountains making them an easy two hours from the city. For many there’s no need to commute as they live here instead. The tourist towns provide climbers’ essentials — such as bakeries, cafes, and good restaurants. The Blueys are immense. You can climb virtually in suburban backyards — or begin a day of serious adventure in World Heritage wilderness just minutes after downing the morning’s latte. Some of the 2500+ routes are over three hundred metres but most are single-pitch. There are plenty of naturally protected routes but the Blue Mountains hosts a wide range of climbing styles and there are plentiful prime sport climbing crags here, some among the best in the land. Diamond FallsOut of the two dozen or so Sport Climbing crags in the Blue Mountains, Diamond Falls is one of the most famous — not only because it is home to some of the best routes, but also because it’s here you’ll find some of the country’s hardest routes.There are two main areas: Access Ledge and Mr Wall. The routes at the Access Ledge have a number of multi-pitch climbs requiring mixed gear, as well as a fine selection of sport routes. This area is a worthwhile destination in its own right. The immaculate Mr Wall is one of the jewels in the crown of Blue Mountains sports climbing. It is home to a high concentration of some of the hardest sports routes in the country. There is a fantastic selection of steep climbs "starting" from grade 26!
Access
From Sydney drive to Katoomba via the Great Western Highway. Head down Katoomba Street towards Echo Point and turn right into Cliff Drive and follow the ‘Scenic Drive 5’ signs. Just past the Landslide Lookout, turn left onto the dirt road Glenraphael Drive which heads out along the Narrow Neck Plateau. Follow this for a couple of kilometers, up a steep concreted hill, then park when you reach the locked gate. Logistics
Nearby Katoomba and Blackheath offer all you need. Period
Climbing is possible year round except in the middle of winter - June, July and August - when it is normally too chilly except on the most unusually warm of days. In summer the sun hits the crag around 2pm. The crag also catches the wind and can get very cold so take some warm clothes even in summer. Climb
Climbing on the circa 2500 routes can be extremely varied, from single pitch and multi- pitch sports climbs to trad routes. Notes
Rock climbing Blue Mountains, Australia, with Vince Day and Monique Forestier
For further information check out www.onsight.com.au
Bibliography
"Blue Mountains Climbing" by Simon Carter 2010
From Sydney drive to Katoomba via the Great Western Highway. Head down Katoomba Street towards Echo Point and turn right into Cliff Drive and follow the ‘Scenic Drive 5’ signs. Just past the Landslide Lookout, turn left onto the dirt road Glenraphael Drive which heads out along the Narrow Neck Plateau. Follow this for a couple of kilometers, up a steep concreted hill, then park when you reach the locked gate. Logistics
Nearby Katoomba and Blackheath offer all you need. Period
Climbing is possible year round except in the middle of winter - June, July and August - when it is normally too chilly except on the most unusually warm of days. In summer the sun hits the crag around 2pm. The crag also catches the wind and can get very cold so take some warm clothes even in summer. Climb
Climbing on the circa 2500 routes can be extremely varied, from single pitch and multi- pitch sports climbs to trad routes. Notes
Rock climbing Blue Mountains, Australia, with Vince Day and Monique Forestier
For further information check out www.onsight.com.au
News archive Blue Mountains |
Bibliography
"Blue Mountains Climbing" by Simon Carter 2010
Sectors
Access Ledge
From the gate near where you parked, walk back along the road for 50m to a sandy track on the western (left) side. Initially there are a few tracks that crisscross one another but after about a minute you should be on an obvious track heading out and down
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sweet And Sour | 20m | 13 | |
2 | Vision W | 15m | 14 | |
3 | Worlds In Collision | 30m | 20 | |
4 | Zones of Love | 33m | 24 | |
5 | Unity | 33m | 23 | |
6 | The Bolt Bloke | 35m | 23 | |
7 | Roaring Fifties | 30m | 13 | |
8 | Southerly Buster | 30m | 13 | |
9 | Christmas Route | 60m | 17 | |
10 | Fountain of Youth | 45m, 15m | 17 | |
11 | Uncooth Youth | 15m | 23 | |
12 | Compressed Carbon | 20m | 25 | |
13 | You Crazy Diamond | 26m | 23 | |
14 | Crystalis | 20m | 24 | |
15 | 8 Carat | 26m | 25 | |
16 | Easy Grounds A Comin' | 58m | 24,18 | |
17 | Hanging Offence | 18m, 20m, 25m | 22 | |
18 | In Harm's Way | 18m, 30m, 18m | 20 | |
19 | Homo Ignoramus | 18m, 18m, 10m | 19 | |
20 | New Year's Route | 18m, 40m | 18 | |
21 | Diamond Jack | 30m, 30m | 25,19 | |
22 | A Girls Best Friend | 35m | 26 | |
23 | The Jewel Thief | 28m | 21 | |
24 | Warlock | 55m | 14 | |
25 | Fool's Paradise | 50m | 12 | |
26 | Black Diamond | 50m | 16 | |
27 | Diamonds Are Forever | 50m | 14 |
Mr Wall
Approach is the same as for the Access Ledge routes; then continue walking along the ledge for a further five minutes. All routes are fully equipped sport routes. Here you’ll find some of Australia’s hardest routes.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mr Wendle | 7m | 26 | |
2 | Porridge And Soot | 10m | 27 | |
3 | Impossible Princess | 10m | 27 | |
4 | Over Monkey | 18m | 32 | |
5 | Rhythm Method | 12m | 26 | |
6 | Rhythm And Stealth | 15m | 32 | |
7 | Open Project - Mr Pink | |||
8 | Tucker Time | 23m | 33 | |
9 | Mr Magoo | 16m | 27 | |
10 | Super Goo | 20m | 28 | |
11 | Super Duper Goo | 20m | 29 | |
12 | Tuckered Out | 23m | 30 | |
13 | Mr Meaner | 20m | 30 | |
14 | Super Weak | 15m | 26 | |
15 | Open Project | |||
16 | Open Project | |||
17 | Theda Bara | 20m | 32 | |
18 | Grey Area | 18m | 33 | |
19 | Sneaky Old Fox | 20m | 34 | |
20 | Fantastic Mr Fox | 18m | 33 | |
21 | Mr Carpet Burn | 18m | 31 | |
22 | Mr Universe | 18m | 30 | |
23 | The Red Project | 18m | ? | |
24 | Hairline2000 | 18m | 28 | |
25 | Mr Tickle | 14m | 32 | |
26 | Runt | 11m | 26 | |
27 | Dogbite | 12m | 31 | |
28 | Der Keitzlig Hund | 12m | 33 | |
29 | You Did It Again | 20m | 26 | |
30 | Some Kind of Bliss | 25m | 31 | |
31 | Lightyears | 35m | 31 | |
32 | Project |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
24 - 33
Height
40m
Routes number
57
Rock type
Sandstone
Orientation
West
Rope
60m