Sébastien Bouin libera Beyond Integral 9b/+ a Pic Saint Loup in Francia

Sébastien Bouin è certamente uno dei climber del momento e durante il suo Vintage Tour il 27enne ha trovato il tempo non solo per ripetere le vie più difficili della Francia degli anni 80 e 90, ma anche per liberare un bel test per le generazioni future.

Si tratta di Beyond integral a Pic Saint Loup, chiodato da Fedric Ferraro e ora liberato da Seb che suggerisce il grado di 9b/+. Un viaggione di 50 metri, composta da una prima parte di 9a+, seguito da un buon riposo e poi una sezione di 8A+ blocco. Nel complesso ne è uscita una via simile, in termini di difficoltà, a La rage d'Adam che Seb aveva liberato nel Verdon, e Move a Flatanger che Seb aveva ripetuto a Flatanger in Norvegia nel 2019. In attesa di ripetizioni e conferma, si tratta di una delle poche vie di queste difficoltà della Francia e del mondo.

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Close to home project : FA "Beyond integral" 9b/+ (5.15b/c) and "Terra Nova" 8c+ After days and days on the top of the north face of the Pic Saint Loup mountain, I am more than happy to make last Tuesday the FA of "Beyond integral" 9b/+ bolted by Fedric Ferraro. I can't count how many times I went on the upper section trying to find a sequence. That's the FA privilege . This place means a lot to me. It's super cool to climb on the top of this beautiful mountain, dominating the valley. This 50 meters route is composed of two parts : a first 9a+ followed by a 8a+ boulder problem. The moves are amazing and spectacular, jumps, dropknees, hills, tuffas, crimps,... all the ingredients for a perfect project. There is a good rest between both parts. About the grade, it's hard to have a clear mind and to prononce myself. I spent a lot of time to find the sequences. I think this route is on the same range than "Move" or "La rage d'Adam". That's why I propose 9b/+. Waiting for some climbers to try this piece I also did the FA of "Terra Nova" 8c+ bolted by Fedric Ferraro. It's a nice line with a spicy end . Thank you Fed to add new lines there . This experience was special. At the beginning I thought I will not find the adventure I can find on a trip on a new area. Then, when I was involved in the process, I lived fully the adventure around my house. It was maybe more intense than a trip process. I rediscovered the Pic Saint Loup sector as it was a new crag. I enjoyed the walk to reach the top of that mountain. I rediscovered the warm up routes, and I was thinking of bolting new routes. There is always new adventures to live, even if you know really well the place. The video is coming in 2021, stay tuned Pic by @raphaelfourau ----------------------------------------- Première ascension : "Beyond integral" 9b/+ et "Terra Nova" 8c+ Après des jours et des jours dans cette face nord au sommet du Pic Saint Loup, je suis bien content de libérer mardi dernier le projet du moment "Beyond Integral" 9b/+, équipé par Fedric Ferraro. Texte complet en français sur ma page Facebook.

Un post condiviso da Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) in data: 23 Ott 2020 alle ore 6:09 PDT