Elferkofel, Sexten Dolomites, Samuel Holzknecht, Simon Messner, Cesare Olivetti

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La Penultima - Elferkofel

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Cesare Olivetti

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The first ascent of 'La Penultima' on Elferkofel, Sexten Dolomites (Samuel Holzknecht, Simon Messner, Cesare Olivetti 12/2023 & 01/2024)

archivio Cesare Olivetti

Beauty

First ascent

Samuel Holzknecht, Simon Messner, Cesare Olivetti 30/12/2023 & 05/01/2024

Cesare Olivetti

Length

450m

Height

2100m

Difficulty

WI4 M5+

Departure

Fischleintal

Route

Beautiful and varied mixed climb on Elferkofel / Cima Undici in the Sexten Dolomites. The route climbs an obvious up to the Cengia degli Alpini ledge and ends here. Thos ewishing to repat the route are advised to take cams, pegs and a hammer, and watch out for avalanche danger.

Getting there

Reach Sexten in the Pustertal valley.

Access

From Sexten enter Fischleintal / Val Fiscalina and continue towards Cima "La Lista" along the Val Fiscalina Alta. Before reaching this peak turn left towards Cima 11 and continue to the base of an obvious gully where the route starts (circa. 2100m). From the Fischleintal car park approximately 1:45 hours.

Itinerary

See topo

Descent

From the last belay, traverse 50m to the right in the gully to reach the abseil stations that lead back down to the base of the gully (see topo).

Gear

Cams, pegs and a hammer are necessary for a repeat.

Notes

Only the belays are equipped with gear (1 bolt + maillon rapide), while on the pitches there are one or two in-situ pegs.