Lucio Rinetti
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'Ecofly' in Valle Argentera, Val di Susa, Italy (Fabrizio Cuniberti, Diego Margiotta, Lucio Rinetti 20/01/2024)
archivio Lucio Rinetti
Beauty
First ascent
Fabrizio Cuniberti, Diego Margiotta, Lucio Rinetti 20/01/2024. Prima Ripetizione: Riccardo Olliveri & co
By
Lucio Rinetti
Orientation
North
Length
120m
Ascent height difference
Approach: +450m
Height
1950m
Difficulty
WI5+, M7
Obligatory difficulty
Overall III
Departure
Ponte Terribile

Route



This mixed climb rarely comes into condition. Located to the left of Coboldo Caustico, it shares the the first pitch and a half. The mixed section is protected with bolts and breaches good quality rock. However, as always take great care if there are climbers below.

Getting there

From Cesana Torinese reach Sauze di Cesana. Continue towards Sestriere for a few hundred meters until the junction on the right, while driving downhill. Turn off here and reach  Ponte Terribile, where the road is closed in winter.

Access

Walk up the valley along the road until you reach the Boucher icefall. Ecofly is located immediately afterwards, in the parallel gully. The first one and a half pitches are shared with Coboldo caustico.

Itinerary

P1: Shared with Coboldo Caustico, diagonal ramp rightwards, max 70°, bolt belay.
P2: Climb towards the center of the icefall and pass a series of steep walls of ice (90°), head sharply left and climb an airy drip. 60m, bolt belay, 4+
P3: Start up rock, the first meters are vertical, then overhanging (4 bolts). Exit on the hanging curtain. Belay on threads on the left, 25m, M7/5+

Descent

From belay #3 to belay #2, then one 60m abseil to the base.

Notes

Ecofly is dedicated to the mountaineer and paraglider Marco Diliberto who died in a mountaineering accident in September 2022.





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Beauty
First ascent
Fabrizio Cuniberti, Diego Margiotta, Lucio Rinetti 20/01/2024. Prima Ripetizione: Riccardo Olliveri & co
By
Lucio Rinetti
Orientation
North
Length
120m
Ascent height difference
Approach: +450m
Height
1950m
Difficulty
WI5+, M7
Obligatory difficulty
Overall III
Departure
Ponte Terribile

Route



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