Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel

Elefantenbauch, the "Elephant’s belly", is a prominent and challenging bulging feature located on the IVth Kirchlispitze, home to three of the finest alpine outings in the entire Rätikon massif: Antihydral (8b, Harald Berger, 2006), Silbergeier (8b+, Beat Kammerlander, Kuoni Kammerlander, 1993) and Hannibals Alptraum (8a, Martin Scheel, Robert Bösch, 1986).

Switzerland’s Marcel Dettling wondered whether there was space for something new among this awe-inspiring triptych and in November 2015 he and Michael Bechtel started up the righthand side of the buttress, to the right of both Silbergeier and Hannibals Alptraum. Climbing ground-up they established three and a half pitches on day one before abseiling off, and with the onset of winter and then the ensuing poor spring they were forced to wait until July 2016 before finally returning.

The remaining three and a half pitches were established on day 2 during what DEttling describes as "certainly one of my best days making a first ascent, yes, even best climbing days ever. The feeling of reaching the summit of the 4th Kirchlispitze late in the evening and completing the new route is simply indescribable."

All that was missing was the first free ascent and as Bechtel was out of the country, on 11/09/2016 Dettling teamed up with his wife Kathrin Dettling and freed all the pitches except for the first, which was climbed with one rest. The first repeat and, at the same time, first onsight, was carried out on 22/09/2016 by Daniel Benz and Lukas Hinterberger.

The climb starts circa 15m to the right of Hannibals Alptraum and takes a completely independent line apart from crossing, at the penultimate belay, the rarely repeated route Linksdrall (V+ A0). The rock quality tends to be bullet-proof Ration limestone although some sections - like all routes in the vicinity - contain rock that may snap. Difficulties are estimated at 7c max and although this is somewhat easier than the neighboring lines, Dettling explains that "the rest of the climbing shouldn’t be underestimated" and requires plenty of experience, especially since 6c+ obligatory climbing can be somewhat run out at times. The new route has been called Prix Garantie promises utmost hallmark Rätikon quality and a stunning alpine setting.

Prix Garantie
IVth Kirchlispitze Rätikon
First ascent: Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel 2015/2016
Grade: 7c, 6c+ obligatory
Length: 220m
P1, 40m, 7c
P2, 30m, 6c
P3, 25m, 7a
P4, 35m, 7a+
P5, 20m, 6c
P7, 40m, 6b
Gear: 2 x 60m ropes, 10 quickdraws, Nuts/ Friends not necessary

For further information check out: mdettling.blogspot.kr